noplasticshowers

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We start where we left off—on the big travel day, 2 shinkansen trains and a marine liner on our way from Hakone to Takamatsu (which was as close to Naishima as we could stay). Here is the Seto Bridge at sunset from the Marine Liner panorama car (seats 1CD).

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Our taxi ride up the hill from the station co-occurred with a blazing sunset.

Hanajukai is a very Japanese, very regional, and really very awesome. We were welcomed with not much English, and accommodated with humor, grace, and great attention to detail. The extended check-in process involved procuring an all day taxi for Naoshima, working out how and when to route our luggage to Kyoto, and picking meal times. The taxi idea was a new one (hire it all day and take it across on the ferry). We did some laughing.  Ultimately, everything came off without a hitch.

We were assigned a Japanese room (108) on the bottom floor corner with a private onsen on the terrace. The room smelled almost edibly of tatami mats. The furnishings had no legs.  The security door was made of paper.

I took a quick travel-recovery soak before dinner. This is something NPS should adopt at home.

We each donned a Yukata and proceeded to the best local kaiseki so far this trip. Beat Hakone hands down. Udon, special dispensation for Romey. Fish poached on the spot.  Here’s what we had…

Local sake.

Honestly delicious. And then it was back to our futon pods on the floor. (After two nights of this, we were ready for a western bed again.)

I was up with the sun again for a very early onsen.

After we deciphered the elevator instructions, we headed up for a very early breakfast on our Naoshima adventure. We met the taxi at 7:20.

Morning view from the coffee area.

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Naoshima!

About the only wrinkle in our Takjamatsu visit came after a magical sunset ferry back to town.  We requested a dropoff at Honetsukidori Ikkaku.  In retrospect we would never do that again. There are not many unwelcoming assholes in Japan, but we managed to  find some.  It became a ramen emergency.

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Followed by a quest to break the little toy machine racket.

A late night onsen saved the day.

Up with the sun again.

Five showerheads for this gem of a hotel Hanajukai. Friendly staff, authentic and delicious local delicacies, beautiful rooms and a perfect onsen.  This made the heart of our honeymoon beat strong.