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Eaton in DC: Trying So Hard to be Hip Must Hurt

November 1, 2026

It is hard to come off a tour of Japan, featuring incredible properties like Arimasansoh Goshobessho, and try to eke something out of the Washington DC hotel scene.  The high end of the hotel food chain in DC is made up with “old lady” hotels like the Jefferson (which my mother adored) and the Four Seasons (yawn).  Now that Kimpton has been utterly digested by IHG, there are absolutely no more design-forward, bar-focused hotels that are both excellent and comfortable.  Or at least none that we can find.

But we’re in town for Rush (and we can’t begin to tell you how great that show was), so we pays our money and takes our chances.

We arrived at the Eaton where the valet hides behind a corner, moved our own car around, got ourselves up into the Duke Ellington suite (arguably the best room this property has to offer), elevator-ed up to the rooftop bar for a quick cocktail, and were met with a very surly hostess with no manners.  Literally not one. Fortunately the bar staff more than made up for that with their fun and attentive service.  But little did we know, we were experiencing pure Eaton, where hospitality seems to sometimes stop just short of the worn furnishings.

So much potential and oh so very close.  What they need is a really good General Manager to remind themselves why they exist.

The Duke Ellington suite is very nice, but it needs some attention.  Like the vinyl idea?  You can use this little statue thing to make the turntable actually function (kinda).  Want to open a bottle?  You’re gonna need to wait for an opener to be brought up.  Loose toilet seat? Uncomfortable bedding?  What?!

I mean, come on.  Do better. The Duke would not have put up with this.

Slick design.

Uncomfortable bed.

The shower is nice but may kill you when you turn it on.

But the plastic toilet seat is falling off, the sliding bathroom door has major scratches in it and no longer shuts properly.  It’s like nobody ever inspects this room.

The separate entrance dressing area is pretty not bad.  Compared to the peninsula?  Does not stack up.

We are more than willing to overpay as this blog attests—but not be ripped off.

OK, enough of that.

The show was amazing.

Dinner at Penn Rasika was workaday but delicious (here is another DC institution that is aimed directly at the people who don’t know any better), “sir and ma’am.”

But you know what is great at the Eaton?  The Allegory speakeasy is superb.  Fun. Welcoming. Open. Just good.  Thanks guys for a good time after the show.  Can you get management to copy whatever you have going on please?

 

 

Brunch the next morning came early, but Unconventional Diner was there with stellar breakfast.  Whatever you crave?  They have it.  Go there.

Four showerheads and loss of the “I really want my money back” feeling for the Eaton.  Grow to your potential.  Unlikely to return.  Which means our DC search continues.

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A Japanese Honeymoon

October 31, 2026

Our long-planned honeymoon trip to Japan was an absolute smash hit. All of the advanced planning helped make things smoothly. (You can read the almost final itenerary document here if you wish. It was developed using both this blog, lots of travel experience, and help from Claude which was really insightful when it came to logistics.)

This was an experience of a lifetime, filled with shared sights and adventures, quiet time, full days of travel, great food and relaxed cocktails. Our mission was high art in every place.  We succeeded.

Here is a chronological listing of blog posts.

The Peninsula Tokyo: Honeymoon Bookends

Hakone: Hakone Gora Karaku

Takamatsu (and Naoshima): Hanajukai 夕凪の湯HOTEL 花樹海

Arimasansoh Goshobessho: Perfection in Arima, Japan

The Thousand Kyoto: Respite from the Tourist Hoards

The Peninsula Tokyo: Honeymoon Bookends

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The Thousand Kyoto: Respite from the Tourist Hoards

October 31, 2026

Topping the Arimasansoh stop is not easy, especially give the entirely different world that Kyoto represents.  One Japanese acquaintance called it “Disney without tickets,” which honestly seems pretty accurate.  And it was hot (seriously, 82 degrees one day and very humid).  And threatening rain but never quite getting around to it.  We expected Fall, so this was a bit of a surprise.

However, the rules state that you MUST go to Kyoto when you visit Japan.  So here we are.   Anyway, if you are going to spend some time in Kyoto, the Thousand is an excellent base of operations.

We said goodbye to Arima and its bridge(?!) and hopped in our comfortable hired car for a ride to Kyoto.

No really, this bridge is famous.

This was my view for the hour or so we drove out of the mountains and into the city.

And then, boom, we arrived at The Thousand to be greeted with a super efficient checkin system, our bags’ perfect timing on arrival (literally during our checkin), and a room ready WAY early.  Though we had requested a Japanese terrace suite on the 9th floor, we were assigned a western terrace suit on the 8th (room 801).  We decided not to look a gift horse in the mouth and go with the room that was ready.

Room 801 is modern, spacious, and really a beautiful place to camp out.  We unpacked and reacquainted ourselves with our long lost huge suitcases (by now filled with as much dirty stuff as clean).

The bedroom door to the suite is ingenious.  I want to copy it.

Both of those “walls” close with two doors that meet at 90 degrees.  Really clever pocket design.

But the terrace is the best part…  Overlooking the train station, and situated in the heat of Kyoto, you might think we would not use the terrace.  But we were out there a bunch.  Maybe we missed Arima.

We have not said much about Japanese toilets on this trip.  But they are still very ridiculous, with many little motors, automated systems, buit in sensors, little warm water squirters…and some rules.  There are lots of rules in Japan making things go smoothly…especially when it comes to toilets.

Part of the jet lag on return involves low-tech toilet adjustment.  WHAT?  I have to reach all the way down and move the toilet seat by hand?!  How primitive!  Then again, when the toilet is all by itself using the fax machine to send messages to its friends, you do wonder what it is thinking.

This is the control bar.  There are many different UI designs for this…all entirely different from one another.

Enough about toilets.  There was a matcha kit in the room too.  So we made matcha.

And we chilled on the patio.

Oh, almost forgot the main thing.  The shower is fantastic and has its own large room devoted to it with a built in bathtub that also serves as a bench.

Lets just say “optimal.”

So what to do on a so-called “rainy afternoon” in Kytoto before a very fancy dinner (if you are keeping track, that will make two incredible dinners in a row)?

Snag a cab over to Sanjūsangen-dō (“Lets Go!” said the very excited cab boy), and have him wait.  You can find this tree.  More bits here.

Then move on into the city to the Issey Miyake flagship temple.

Swing into town to do your duty as a tik-tok influencer at the hipster coffee house. Stop by and start the Hello Kitty quest.

And then return to base in time for a leisurely shower and a cab right to an incredible dinner at Pontocho Misoguigawa 禊川 and a rainy cocktail at K36.

It was a nice jolt back onto the tourist ride.

The next morning we hired an early cab to arrive precisely at 9am at Shōden-ji, doing our Bowie pilgrimage.  This was an excellent side trip.

And then right back into the heart of town and the human maelstrom at Kyoto City KYOCERA where the very popular Zen and Ghibli show was on.  It was a zoo. About the exact opposite of a Zen rock garden all by ourselves.

Which led to some Udon and a quick refactoring (and planned withdrawal) to chill on our terrace, cool off, and generally try to see only eachother for a while.

We dropped by Jazz Spot Yamatoya for an early cocktail before dinner.

And listened to some excellent jazz on vinyl.

Then cabbed to the top of the already “thickening” Pontocho Alley for a look at the restaurant scene turning on.  We stopped in for a bad drink and a great time at Stardust with a bunch of foreigners.

And then it was off on a leisurely stroll to tempura dinner at Gion Fuji.  Romey was a bit on the reluctant side at first, but dinner was light and delicious and only involved a few crazy things they wanted us to stick in our mouths.  The sake was particularly good.

From this…

To this…

Delish.

We returned to the hotel just in time for the lobby light show.

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Leaving only half a day in Kyoto the next morning before our trip back to Tokyo and eventually home.  We made an early morning expedition to Fushimi Inari Taisha and a nice Australian style brekkie at Vermillion (where we opened the place and secured a great table by the mosquito pond).

We caught a willing Uber back to The Thousand, showered, finished packing up our train bags, and it was back to Tokyo in time for afternoon tea.

Five showerheads for The Thousand even though they screwed up the room category on us.  They were gracious hosts in a beautiful modern place.

 

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Arimasansoh Goshobessho: Perfection in Arima, Japan

October 30, 2026

The morning after our perfect day on Naoshima came early. Romey was not in the mood for Japanese breakfast again, so we uncovered Little Mermaid (or Ritorumameidotakamatsuekiten リトルマーメイド高松駅店) which served up Danish breakfast in all of its carbohydrate glory. We paid a visit there before hitting the train and heading to Kobe, where we picked up a taxi to Arimasansoh Goshobessho.

I got a special Autumn edition bento at the train station department store just as they opened.

Even the arrival was meaningful as the taxi drove us right past the entrance…discrete and hidden behind a tall wall right on the road. The staff rushed to unload us, and though we were early, finalized our villa as we got permission to eat the bento we had no time for on the train.

We had our lunch by the huge window in the great room. Slowly nature sank back in.

And then we were escorted the exquisite villa with the “birds nest” onsen where we were to spend the night. The space was outstanding. Hands down the best accommodations of the trip.

The bathroom annex included an onsen shower, the birds nest onsen itself (“golden” being a euphemism for muddy), a sauna, and a dressing area with sinks.

The onsen was very cool indeed. We took a soak.

Goshobessho is filled with art and juxtaposed with Portugal in interesting ways. This was reflected in the food as well.

Even the little “stuff bag” for carrying around your personal items between baths was cool.

After a luxurious and fun afternoon, we headed across the compound to the best kaiseki rykan dinner of the trip. Our server Aoi (あおい is a Japanese word that can mean both “blue” and “green,” depending on the context. It is also a common unisex name in Japan, with various meanings based on the kanji used) was delightful, had some quirky but excellent youtube infected English, and was a sake sommelier who had just passed her exams. We asked for just the right thing when we requested a sake pairing. Exceptional.

In this case the food was even more delicious than it looked, and it looked superb.

The chopstick holders came with intentional design.

This sake is super special. Each came with its own beautiful glassware or pottery

The menu

A poem on the wall says in perfect Portuguese melancholia:

Of Myself

I watch myself burning old letters and contemplate the sad smoke that rises…
This sadness is not for you, who have already passed by.
There is nothing in me.
I am sad with myself for having no sadness.

We were the opposite of sad about dinner, and caused a minor kitchen kerfuffle when we requested to speak to the chef and give him our highest compliments.

And then whiskey and another soak before bed.

There was more magic in store the next morning before we departed. We spent some time exploring the small but beautiful compound.

Morning soak and a leaf trapped in falling. Such peace.

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Breakfast backdrop. The architecture incorporates the outside.

Art

Grounds

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Looking up at the bird’s nest.

And then it was off to reacquaint ourselves with the tourist hordes in Kyoto in a chartered car. The drive was just over an hour.

Bye now. Stay cool.

Five showerheads and a bubble of everlasting peace for the Arimasansoh Goshobessho. We sincerely can’t wait to return.

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Takamatsu (and Naoshima): Hanajukai 夕凪の湯HOTEL 花樹海

October 28, 2026

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We start where we left off—on the big travel day, 2 shinkansen trains and a marine liner on our way from Hakone to Takamatsu (which was as close to Naishima as we could stay). Here is the Seto Bridge at sunset from the Marine Liner panorama car (seats 1CD).

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Our taxi ride up the hill from the station co-occurred with a blazing sunset.

Hanajukai is a very Japanese, very regional, and really very awesome. We were welcomed with not much English, and accommodated with humor, grace, and great attention to detail. The extended check-in process involved procuring an all day taxi for Naoshima, working out how and when to route our luggage to Kyoto, and picking meal times. The taxi idea was a new one (hire it all day and take it across on the ferry). We did some laughing.  Ultimately, everything came off without a hitch.

We were assigned a Japanese room (108) on the bottom floor corner with a private onsen on the terrace. The room smelled almost edibly of tatami mats. The furnishings had no legs.  The security door was made of paper.

I took a quick travel-recovery soak before dinner. This is something NPS should adopt at home.

We each donned a Yukata and proceeded to the best local kaiseki so far this trip. Beat Hakone hands down. Udon, special dispensation for Romey. Fish poached on the spot.  Here’s what we had…

Local sake.

Honestly delicious. And then it was back to our futon pods on the floor. (After two nights of this, we were ready for a western bed again.)

I was up with the sun again for a very early onsen.

After we deciphered the elevator instructions, we headed up for a very early breakfast on our Naoshima adventure. We met the taxi at 7:20.

Morning view from the coffee area.

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Naoshima! See the many Naoshima entries: Taxi, ferry, Go’o shrine, chichu, yellow pumpkin, red pumpkin, and sunset ferry.

About the only wrinkle in our Takjamatsu visit came after a magical sunset ferry back to town.  We requested a dropoff at Honetsukidori Ikkaku.  In retrospect we would never do that again. There are not many unwelcoming assholes in Japan, but we managed to  find some.  It became a ramen emergency.

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Followed by a quest to break the little toy machine racket.


A late night onsen saved the day.

Up with the sun again.

Five showerheads for this gem of a hotel Hanajukai. Friendly staff, authentic and delicious local delicacies, beautiful rooms and a perfect onsen.  This made the heart of our honeymoon beat strong.

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The Peninsula Tokyo: Honeymoon Bookends

October 26, 2026

The Peninsula hotel is beautiful and turns out to be a better place to start a trip to Japan than to end one.  But we are getting way ahead of ourselves.

First, an obligatory 777-200 pod shot.

Our arrival from Haneda was chaotic. Small airport, too many planes at once, customs lines crisscrossing, lots of people slipping between the cracks. Plus it was hot and stuffy. But the second that we emerged from Customs chaos, a Peninsula runner was there to greet us. We took a quick side trip to get cash from a 7-11 ATM and two Suica cards to use on trains, and then it was off to meet our loquacious driver.

The road signs were a hint of cultural differences to come.

The drive is very quick and particularly relaxing in a Toyota Century (built for salarymen at the top of the capitalist food chain). We were greeted by a swarm of at least 15 staff members who whisked away our luggage as we ourselves were whisked directly to room 1308. The checkin process was a bit overly thorough and dramatic…though we were ultimately left to shower and order some ramen from room service with zero lines.

There was honeymoon champagne and a nice note from the staff.

The suite with a city view was as nicely appointed as it was laid out.

No sign of plastic in the bathroom.

And a closet/dressing room that is second to none.

Romey appreciated the vegetable ramen option so much that she wanted it again on our second stay.

After dinner, we took the elevator up to the very purple and very ’90s Peter the bar. The view was as OK as the cocktails were overpriced.

The Peninsula is a particularly great place to use as a base of operations in Tokyo because it has metro access in the basement, and is an easy walk to Ginza.

We took the metro to Meiji-Jingu first thing in the morning after breakfast on day 1. Romey found the best organic breakfast in Japan right off the bat.  The metro was very silent and orderly even at rush hour.

We did some jean shopping in Tokyo before lunch…at the wrong place that turned out to be the very much right place.

And had an excellent lunch at Yanmo.

Next up was a cab to Azabudai Hills to experience the teamlab borderless light extravaganza. Though there were really way too many people, we would do it again.

And then it was up to the Mori tower (not the JR Mori Tower, mind you) to watch the sun set over Tokyo and the red lights blink on.

This left us with enough time to go to the right jeans shop (which, as you already learned, was the wrong choice) to conjur up some personalized denim.

We returned exhausted enough to pick up some Chinese at Joe’s Shanghai New York.

The next morning we headed to Ginza 6 at its opening bell. Quite the scene.

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And then it was off to the rest of our adventure: Hakone, Takamatsu, Naoshima, Arima, and Kyoto.

—< end part one >—

—< start part two >—

We returned to the peninsula on our way out of Japan, arriving by anonymous taxi.

Lets just say that our greeting for the second arrival was entirely different. We were not whisked anywhere, but stood in line to be “upgraded” to a suite in the category we had already paid for (LOL). It seems the Peninsula mask slips a bit when you show up twice in one week by train station taxi.

We spent the last two nights in 1620 with a view of the Imperial Palace park (and its excellent sunset). We enjoyed spreading out (after requesting a nice set of hangars to use)…situation assessment was in order.

We definitely recommend the upgrade by money route.

Of course, it was us…so here is what high disorder looks like.

After arrival two, we headed out to see Zenkō-ji and the Omatesando neighborhood. We were on a quest for PJs and underwear.

To complete her quest, Romey joined an underground Tokyo underwear gang at Uniqlo.

And we had an outstanding, much-needed break at Bar Radio. Dark and quiet with a sophisticated clientele, Bar Radio is everything that Peter the bar is not.

More vegetarian ramen was on the agenda for our 9pm dinner.  Guess whose biological clocks were completely synced?

Our last day in Japan was punctuated by high tourism. We started early at the Tokyo tourist mecca…the Tsukiji Outer Market. Get there before 9am (if you get there at all)! Somehow we stayed one step ahead of the tourist hordes all day.

By 9am, we had walked over to Hamarikyu Gardens for some matcha in the teahouse.  Just as we left, 2 packed buses of tourists were unloading.

We bought some Hello Kitty stuff (waiting with a small group for the 11am opening ON THE DOT), and some heart things at Comme des Garçons.

And after a short respite at the hotel to freshen up it was off to fancy and very very early sushi dinner at Ginza Kyūbey Ginza Honten 銀座久兵衛 銀座 本店.

Our tourist-driven day was punctuated with a forgettable visit to Tender bar (skip it), and a quick hit to Don Quijote and the lights at Akihabara.

We cabbed home—touristed entirely out. Romey was in no mood for the purple neon of Peter the bar—and neither was I.

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The next morning, it was last licks for the leisurely organic breakfast during which we decided to swing up to Sensō-ji temple on a quest to find Astro Boy and an off-season Yukata.

We took the very very crowded Ginza line back to the Peninsula (well sort of) and snagged a cab after exiting the wrong exit (thanks Claude).

Final packing time was upon us.

Our packing was coming along when we discovered that we needed a new suitcase to get everything home. So we went across the street to Proteca and picked up a new bag.

And then it was time to depart Japan.  Arigatō gozaimasu!  One great honeymoon.

Five shower heads and an upgrade you paid for yourself for the Peninsula Tokyo. (Things are always better when the mask stays in place.)

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Last Licks in Tokyo

November 30, 2019

One more day in Tokyo before flying home. NPS is back in the very same room at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo with the progeny for another night. After taking the Shinkansen back from Kyoto it was time for sushi with Rio.

Lots of sushi pictures and videos on apothecaryshed.

Then it was off to “the local” for a pre-game negroni (that is, the Tippler’s Arms).

The Tippler’s Arms will make you a cocktail

Then a local train to Kitazaswa to see the Dead Bambis. First a fuel stop before the show.

The Dead Bambis are very loud and very good. (Earplugs are a necessity at these shows!). See more pictures and videos of the show on apothecaryshed.

Then a visit to a new bar in Shinjuku bound to become a classic—Jeremiah. We met the owner K in Kyoto at Bees Knees and he told us about his new project in Tokyo. K then met us in Tokyo. Awesome.

Blue blazers, corpse revivers, extra fun shots. Just go!

Finally it was across the street to the LGBTQ neighborhood Hanazono Nishi for some people watching and dog patting.

Short, but fun last day in Tokyo!

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Pontocho Misoguigawa: An Incredible Culinary Experience

November 29, 2019

Pontocho Misoguigawa in Kyoto is a legend. Incredible Japanese/French fusion food served Kaiseki (懐石) style. If you miss your milk, butter, and cream while in Japan, just pay a visit.

Chef (and owner) Inoué Téruo is a delight and a master. His annual trips to France show in his cuisine.

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The Thousand Kyoto

November 28, 2019

Outside art at The Thousand

The brand spanking new hotel called The Thousand in Kyoto is a high design treat. Open, artful, tasteful, and gorgeous. We arrived via Shinkansen from Tokyo and walked the few hundred feet to the hotel. We had some tea.

Green Tea at The Thousand Tea Room

Yoshi meets the progeny

Kubota Ramen

Our first order of business was meeting Yoshi (@kemono4shikazu) who NPS met last time around in Kyoto. Yoshi is a delightful person. He took us to Kubota Ramen, a great way to start out a visit to Kyoto.

We stopped by Saredo coffee on the way back to check in.

Check out Yoshi’s super terrific band!

We booked an incredible Japanese style suite at The Thousand and were assigned 803. An amazing room indeed!

Leave your shoes in the anteroom

Pile your suitcases by the closet

Suite 803

The suite features a terrace overlooking the train station.

Of course the shower here is NPS approved.

The shower room includes a tub

And also of course, the toilet is complicated (and plugs in for power). Not sure what

Plug in your toilet

Not sure we even want to know what “pulsate” does.

After stashing our stuff and a short respite, we headed out to Nishiki market for some consumer spending.

Bees Knees Kyoto is a great bar

As it was cocktail hour, we stopped in at the incomparable Bees Knees bar. Great cocktails and super people. We had some Japanese renditions of classics (CR#2, Last Word, Aperol Spritz), and then it was
off to dinner.

We wandered into Steak and Wine Ginjiro for a very touristy meal of Kobe beef and bad wine. These kinds of restaurants pervade Nishi-kiyacho Ally and can probably be safely skipped. The food was good nonetheless.

Table art at Ginjiro

Never flown

Kobe

Our attempt to visit the French bar was thwarted by crowds of tourists so we had some ice cream and refactored our plan. Next we went to Nokishita711 for some gin. Simply put, Nokishita711 is a very strange place. NPS is not so sure whether that is good or bad. A “root of all evil” cocktail was interesting indeed. But the whole scene is just a little too too.

Nokishita711

Um, a cocktail?

And then for the last few cocktails and shots of the evening, it was back to Bees Knees. We had a few with the owner. Too many shots later, we somehow managed to make it home.

We bow to the owner of Bees Knees

Sazaracs

Sleeping in late was mandatory after the raging party at Bees Knees. It was all those extra shots all around that did it.

The good news is that there is no more perfect food to cure a hangover than ramen. In Japan, evemn commercial ramen is great.

A visit to Fushimi Inari in the late afternoon put us at the top in perfect time for sunset. Magical. See lots of pictures and videos on apothecaryshed.

Get a fried chicken dinner at Sugar Hill. Delicious.

The gym at The Thousand is pretty standard issue for a hotel. Seems bigger because of mirrors. Up early to work out is good.

Breakfast on day two Kyoto was at Kawa Cafe, a French/Japanese fusion place right on the river. Highly recommended (though it is rather strange that a cafe can’t make a macchiato!).

Kawa visitors

Deliciousness at the Kawa Cafe

The walk back down was beautiful.

Walking Kyoto

In fact, being in Kyoto for autumn is a thing. Do it!

Autumn in Kyoto is gorgeous

The obligatory trip to Arashiyama included the temple gardens. Should have done that last time!

Bamboo for you

Arishayama Shadow

Obu cafe is worth a visit.

Lunch in touristland

Excellent espresso in Japan can be found at Karusa Kyoto.

Best coffee in Kyoto?! Could well be.

The Straight bar makes an excellent Japanese Negroni.

A once (or twice) in a lifetime experience involves dinner at Pontocho Misoguigawa. Just wow.

Dinner at Pontocho Misoguigawa is not to be missed.

And to top off the evening, some jazz and a Gin Rickey at Hello Dolly.

Hello Dolly jazz

A gin rickey (DC’s signature drink) in Japan

Mount Fuji from the Shinkansen. See more on apothecaryshed.

Fuji

Kyoto, NPS will be back for sure!!

Five very impressive showerheads for The Thousand Kyoto

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Back to the Excellent Grand Hyatt Tokyo

November 24, 2019

After a 19 hour trip from Washington, the Tokyo Station was a welcome sight. A quick taxi ride to Rappongi and we arrived at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo. NPS is traveling with the progeny. We’ve been here before, and it is great to be back.

Taxi stand Tokyo Station

Tokyo on arrival

Checkin was smooth. We requested a Twin Club Deluxe room with an extra bed to suite three adults. Our room 1013 is on the concierge level where the club is. Super convenient for breakfast and cocktails.

1013 twin club

The bathroom is spacious and well appointed with an NPS approved shower

Omnipresent screen

1013 is a very nice room, just fine for three adults.

The elevator hallway

A late dinner at The Oak Door steakhouse was impressive indeed. One of the best steaks NPS has ever eaten. Just wow.

Porterhouse (off menu)

The sides were just as fantastic as the steak.

And then it was time for much needed sleep. Sleeping on planes in pods is a fitful and pretty much unfulfilling experience. (United Polaris remains among the best in the business for international travel).

Some tips for Japan travelers. Make sure to reserve a wifi device for your wanderings so you can connect your phone(s) through that. You can pick up your device on landing at Narita at the fourth floor post office. Then get some cash if you can. Japan is all about cash. Finally, try to get a Japan Rail Green pass before you arrive. This trip, the US Post office screwed up delivery of our passes by imposing a six week delay. That meant we had to purchase passes on arrival (still recommended, but more expensive). The US Post Office sucks.

Shibuya mural

Day one in Tokyo started kind of late due to the inevitable jet lag suffered by the progeny. We started at Shibuya station to see the famous mural, the dog statue, and the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection. We also had some soup.

Tokyo Sunglasses

Next was a walk up towards Meiji Jingu that took us by an excellent sunglasses retailer, and the pedestrian shopping streets (very different) Ometesando and Takeshita. Trifles were acquired.

Espresso on the Street

Meiji Jingu

Meiji Jingu is a magical place. Any source of peace is much needed for NPS at this juncture. Shinto.

Meiji Jingu

We exited the north end of the shrine by some yellow ginkos and walked up to a small mall to share a bottle of french wine.

Samurai Museum

There was just enough time to stop in at the Samurai museum (well worth a peek) before dinner.

Sushi at Makoto Sushi was outstanding.

Then it was off on a cocktail bar crawl of sorts. Sadly Ben Fiddich was full (a reservation is a must, but the only slot we could get by phone was for 6pm, too early for us). So we found a nearby dive bar. Three bar was very professional. Nice ice. Great Negroni measured with care.

We walked from Three Bar through piss alley. Golden Gai was our final destination for the day. We visited Baobab (the first vinyl bar in Tokyo) to listen to some old funk and drink some rum. Then it was off to our final destination Le Parrain (a godfather themed, old school, very smokey bar). Great cocktails included a Jack Rose, and over sweet Old Fashioned, and a Corpse Reviver or two. (Special thanks to Jacques Bezuidenhout for excellent cocktail and food data.)

Le Parrain cocktail round

Day two in Tokyo also got off to a late start, this time because two of three of us on this trip work working (hint: not NPS who is “retired“). The day was devised with some help from Patrick who has lived in Tokyo for 10 years or so. The trip began at Hinade pier where we caught a city ferry up to Asakusa pier. The trip was about 40 minutes and a fun way to get around Tokyo.

Fuji Ramen (Tokyo)

Fuji Ramen shop

Our first stop of the day was at Fuji Ramen near Senso-ji temple. Absolutely delicious ramen!

The weather was drizzly at Senso-ji, which somehow seems to fit the mood of the temple. (See more about this visit on apothecaryshed.)

Walking Tokyo

From there, we walked to Kappabashi street to see the kitchenware and plastic food.

Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum

A taxi delivered us to the Ueno park area where we spent an hour looking at impressionist paintings from France (because what else are you supposed to look at while in Japan?) at the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. The people at the art museum, though teeming, were absolutely silent as they looked at the famous paintings. (See up and down art on apothecaryshed.)

Vending

A short walk through the park and a quick cab ride deposited us at our last stop, Akihabara. The progeny was familiar with all of the Anime stuff. NPS simply watched in awe of the breadth of Anime culture.

We cabbed back to the hotel for a brief pit stop before an incredibly great dibber at PST Pizza Studio Tamaka (in Roppongi close to the hotel). Recommended by friends of Jacques, the pizza at PST is Italian style and absolutely delicious. Highly recommended.

Our final stop before crashing and burning in the jetlag haze of day two was the Mori tower. The view of Tokyo and surrounds from 50 floors is not to be missed.

Day three started way early for a trip on the Shinkansen to Kyoto, about which see this NPS blog entry.

Five showerheads for the Grand Hyatt Tokyo. Great to be back. This place is an NPS recommended home base in Tokyo.

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