noplasticshowers

The morning after our perfect day on Naoshima came early. Romey was not in the mood for Japanese breakfast again, so we uncovered Little Mermaid (or Ritorumameidotakamatsuekiten リトルマーメイド高松駅店) which served up Danish breakfast in all of its carbohydrate glory. We paid a visit there before hitting the train and heading to Kobe, where we picked up a taxi to Arimasansoh Goshobessho.

I got a special Autumn edition bento at the train station department store just as they opened.

Even the arrival was meaningful as the taxi drove us right past the entrance…discrete and hidden behind a tall wall right on the road. The staff rushed to unload us, and though we were early, finalized our villa as we got permission to eat the bento we had no time for on the train.

We had our lunch by the huge window in the great room. Slowly nature sank back in.

And then we were escorted the exquisite villa with the “birds nest” onsen where we were to spend the night. The space was outstanding. Hands down the best accommodations of the trip.

The bathroom annex included an onsen shower, the birds nest onsen itself (“golden” being a euphemism for muddy), a sauna, and a dressing area with sinks.

The onsen was very cool indeed. We took a soak.

Goshobessho is filled with art and juxtaposed with Portugal in interesting ways. This was reflected in the food as well.

Even the little “stuff bag” for carrying around your personal items between baths was cool.

After a luxurious and fun afternoon, we headed across the compound to the best kaiseki rykan dinner of the trip. Our server Aoi (あおい is a Japanese word that can mean both “blue” and “green,” depending on the context. It is also a common unisex name in Japan, with various meanings based on the kanji used) was delightful, had some quirky but excellent youtube infected English, and was a sake sommelier who had just passed her exams. We asked for just the right thing when we requested a sake pairing. Exceptional.

In this case the food was even more delicious than it looked, and it looked superb.

The chopstick holders came with intentional design.

This sake is super special. Each came with its own beautiful glassware or pottery

The menu

A poem on the wall says in perfect Portuguese melancholia:

Of Myself

I watch myself burning old letters and contemplate the sad smoke that rises…
This sadness is not for you, who have already passed by.
There is nothing in me.
I am sad with myself for having no sadness.

We were the opposite of sad about dinner, and caused a minor kitchen kerfuffle when we requested to speak to the chef and give him our highest compliments.

And then whiskey and another soak before bed.

There was more magic in store the next morning before we departed. We spent some time exploring the small but beautiful compound.

Morning soak and a leaf trapped in falling. Such peace.

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Breakfast backdrop. The architecture incorporates the outside.

Art

Grounds

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Looking up at the bird’s nest.

And then it was off to reacquaint ourselves with the tourist hordes in Kyoto in a chartered car. The drive was just over an hour.

Bye now. Stay cool.

Five showerheads and a bubble of everlasting peace for the Arimasansoh Goshobessho. We sincerely can’t wait to return.