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I mean, maybe the Clash was not singing about us, but our opinion is that you should go but you should not stay. See, the thermal baths are awesome and one of the great things to do in Nancy (France). But you shouldn’t stay at Villa Thermae. Sadly, we’re not really sure where you should stay when you visit Nancy.

We’re getting ahead of ourselves…

We were invited to Nancy to talk about our ancient thesis of yore (Letter Spirit) which you can read about here. I mean, how wild to be asked to talk about 30 year old work on creativity, AI, and letter perception. What an honor. Here is a posting about the talk.


Scott Kim shows an illustration of gridfonts that I made 30 years ago.

Nancy is really a small provincial town with a long history and important links to design and fine arts. There are plenty of great places to eat, including: Sèves, Excelsior (about more which below), and le capu.

Avocado toast at Sèves is to die for

Excelsior has excellent oysters in a classic setting

An edible doohicky at le capu

The spa at Villa Thermae is worth a visit. But it is run by tiny French bureaucrats who should be replaced. And it is not upscale in the least. It’s very public and very French. Hilariously, I was forced to buy tiny little Euro bathing pants since bathing suits of the US variety were not allowed. We had serious scheduling issues with this place, so be forewarned.

We were assigned hamster cage 215, which was, all told, an awful room. It had a musty smell that could not be dispersed (coming from the dishwasher), the shower was plastic and too small, and the room was generic and uncomfortable. But it was free, and it was very close to the conference site. We failed to take pictures.

École nationale supérieure d’art et de design de Nancy

The famous Place Stanislas is actually quite boring. We went to see it so you don’t have to.

While we were at the aforementioned square on our first day, we were targeted by thieves who spotted our roller suitcases and jet lagged state from a distance. The group of 4 were easy enough to avoid, but certainly colored our visit to Nancy for the worse. Mostly people were friendly and helpful and the bus system was really easy to use. But the tourist zone can be skipped without reservation.

A group dinner at Excelsior was really delightful. Romey and I showed up way early in our quest to stay awake and had some secret oysters before the others arrived. Then we temporarily joined the wrong group…something about secretion?! LOL.

We had an absolutely amazing time at the NORM opening in My Monkey Gallery. See lots of content about that show on apothecaryshed.

The NORM artists by a gridfont-like machine observed by the lego throned gem

A visit to Musée de l’École de Nancy will steep you in l’Art Nouveau and set you back 100 years.

We switched up our TGV tickets and trained to Paris early. Nancy is certainly worth a visit, but Villa Thermae earns a paltry and musty two showerheads.

First you leave Tokyo on a bullet train. Eventually you end up on a tiny local that chugs up the mountain at an unhurried pace through a set of switchbacks. And then you arrive. Peace.

Gora Kadan is situated on a hillside just a few minutes walk from the Gora train station.

Hakone local

The welcome ritual is relaxing and very upscale. The big bucks come here to relax. And relax they do. Gorgeous setting. Natural hot springs. Mountains. Art.

After checking our bags, we headed out for some Soba and some art.

Soba

Sculpture in

We made an early afternoon visit to the Hakone Outdoor Museum. Just wow. Go to see the sculpture.

Then it was back to Gora Kadan to meet our room assistant and find our private accommodations (Japanese style).

Yes, you will need a private hot spring tub. Check out the view from the glass shower!

Strangely, the bathroom was divided into two sections somewhat far from each other. The obligatory Japanese toilet had many buttons.

After donning kimonos, we headed back upstairs for a soak in the public hot springs. Follow the washing rituals! Turns out that our sex segregated hot springs were mostly private since we were the only guests there. Then a glass of champagne after bathing and a swim in the pool. Pictures are not allowed in the public guests areas at Gora Kadan. The design is classic upscale Japanese. An incredible place to visit.

Kaiseki dinner is served in the room and takes at least two hours. Follow that with a massage and you have a perfect spa visit.

Kaiseki dinner

Five showerheads for Gora Kadan plus extensive hot springs and luxury of the highest order.