A Japanese Honeymoon
October 31, 2026

Our long-planned honeymoon trip to Japan was an absolute smash hit. All of the advanced planning helped make things smoothly. (You can read the almost final itenerary document here if you wish. It was developed using both this blog, lots of travel experience, and help from Claude which was really insightful when it came to logistics.)
This was an experience of a lifetime, filled with shared sights and adventures, quiet time, full days of travel, great food and relaxed cocktails. Our mission was high art in every place. We succeeded.
Here is a chronological listing of blog posts.
The Peninsula Tokyo: Honeymoon Bookends

- Tokyo Street Sign: All Systems Go
- Tokyo: Meiji Jingu
- Tokyo Metro: Chiyoda vs Ginza
- Tokyo Streets (including that infernal crossing of the bronze dog)
- teamLab Borderless Tokyo
- Sunset from the Mori Tower Tokyo
- A Tale of Two Levis
- Lunch as Art: Yanmo Tokyo やんも 南青山店

- Hakone Open Air Museum: World Class Sculpture and Yayoi’s White Pumpkin
- Sunrise in Hakone
- Trains in Japan
- Panorama Car of the Marine Liner: Coming and Going Across the Seto Bridge
Takamatsu (and Naoshima): Hanajukai 夕凪の湯HOTEL 花樹海


- Naoshima by Taxi
- Naoshima: Ferry from Takamatsu
- Naoshima: Go’o Shrine
- Naoshima Chichu
- Naoshima: The Yellow Pumpkin
- Naoshima: The Red Pumpkin
- Naoshima: Sunset Ferry
- Panorama Car of the Marine Liner: Coming and Going Across the Seto Bridge Part II
Arimasansoh Goshobessho: Perfection in Arima, Japan

The Thousand Kyoto: Respite from the Tourist Hoards

- Kyoto: 1000 Buddhas at Sanjūsangen-dō
- The Temple of Issey Miyake: Kyoto
- Hello Kitty Kyoto
- Kyoto Food Mecca: Pontocho Misoguigawa 禊川
- A Visit Inspired by Bowie: Shōden-ji
- Zen and Ghibli with 2000 of our Closest Friends
- Early Morning at Fushimi Inari Taisha
- Finally the Matcha Kit Kats
The Peninsula Tokyo: Honeymoon Bookends

- Tokyo: Zenkō-ji and the Omatesando neighborhood
- Tokyo: Mandatory Visit to Tsukiji Outer Market
- Tokyo: Matcha in Hamariku Gardens
- Tokyo Food Target: Sushi at Kyūbey Ginza Honten 銀座久兵衛 銀座 本店
- Tokyo Last Licks: Gewgaws and Yukata at Sensō-ji

The Thousand Kyoto: Respite from the Tourist Hoards
October 31, 2026
Topping the Arimasansoh stop is not easy, especially give the entirely different world that Kyoto represents. One Japanese acquaintance called it “Disney without tickets,” which honestly seems pretty accurate. And it was hot (seriously, 82 degrees one day and very humid). And threatening rain but never quite getting around to it. We expected Fall, so this was a bit of a surprise.
However, the rules state that you MUST go to Kyoto when you visit Japan. So here we are. Anyway, if you are going to spend some time in Kyoto, the Thousand is an excellent base of operations.

We said goodbye to Arima and its bridge(?!) and hopped in our comfortable hired car for a ride to Kyoto.
No really, this bridge is famous.

This was my view for the hour or so we drove out of the mountains and into the city.

And then, boom, we arrived at The Thousand to be greeted with a super efficient checkin system, our bags’ perfect timing on arrival (literally during our checkin), and a room ready WAY early. Though we had requested a Japanese terrace suite on the 9th floor, we were assigned a western terrace suit on the 8th (room 801). We decided not to look a gift horse in the mouth and go with the room that was ready.

Room 801 is modern, spacious, and really a beautiful place to camp out. We unpacked and reacquainted ourselves with our long lost huge suitcases (by now filled with as much dirty stuff as clean).


The bedroom door to the suite is ingenious. I want to copy it.

Both of those “walls” close with two doors that meet at 90 degrees. Really clever pocket design.

But the terrace is the best part… Overlooking the train station, and situated in the heat of Kyoto, you might think we would not use the terrace. But we were out there a bunch. Maybe we missed Arima.

We have not said much about Japanese toilets on this trip. But they are still very ridiculous, with many little motors, automated systems, buit in sensors, little warm water squirters…and some rules. There are lots of rules in Japan making things go smoothly…especially when it comes to toilets.
Part of the jet lag on return involves low-tech toilet adjustment. WHAT? I have to reach all the way down and move the toilet seat by hand?! How primitive! Then again, when the toilet is all by itself using the fax machine to send messages to its friends, you do wonder what it is thinking.

This is the control bar. There are many different UI designs for this…all entirely different from one another.

Enough about toilets. There was a matcha kit in the room too. So we made matcha.

And we chilled on the patio.

Oh, almost forgot the main thing. The shower is fantastic and has its own large room devoted to it with a built in bathtub that also serves as a bench.


Lets just say “optimal.”
So what to do on a so-called “rainy afternoon” in Kytoto before a very fancy dinner (if you are keeping track, that will make two incredible dinners in a row)?
Snag a cab over to Sanjūsangen-dō (“Lets Go!” said the very excited cab boy), and have him wait. You can find this tree. More bits here.

Then move on into the city to the Issey Miyake flagship temple.

Swing into town to do your duty as a tik-tok influencer at the hipster coffee house. Stop by and start the Hello Kitty quest.

And then return to base in time for a leisurely shower and a cab right to an incredible dinner at Pontocho Misoguigawa 禊川 and a rainy cocktail at K36.


It was a nice jolt back onto the tourist ride.

The next morning we hired an early cab to arrive precisely at 9am at Shōden-ji, doing our Bowie pilgrimage. This was an excellent side trip.

And then right back into the heart of town and the human maelstrom at Kyoto City KYOCERA where the very popular Zen and Ghibli show was on. It was a zoo. About the exact opposite of a Zen rock garden all by ourselves.
Which led to some Udon and a quick refactoring (and planned withdrawal) to chill on our terrace, cool off, and generally try to see only eachother for a while.
We dropped by Jazz Spot Yamatoya for an early cocktail before dinner.


And listened to some excellent jazz on vinyl.

Then cabbed to the top of the already “thickening” Pontocho Alley for a look at the restaurant scene turning on. We stopped in for a bad drink and a great time at Stardust with a bunch of foreigners.




And then it was off on a leisurely stroll to tempura dinner at Gion Fuji. Romey was a bit on the reluctant side at first, but dinner was light and delicious and only involved a few crazy things they wanted us to stick in our mouths. The sake was particularly good.
From this…

To this…

Delish.

We returned to the hotel just in time for the lobby light show.
.
Leaving only half a day in Kyoto the next morning before our trip back to Tokyo and eventually home. We made an early morning expedition to Fushimi Inari Taisha and a nice Australian style brekkie at Vermillion (where we opened the place and secured a great table by the mosquito pond).



We caught a willing Uber back to The Thousand, showered, finished packing up our train bags, and it was back to Tokyo in time for afternoon tea.
Five showerheads for The Thousand even though they screwed up the room category on us. They were gracious hosts in a beautiful modern place.
Pontocho Misoguigawa: An Incredible Culinary Experience
November 29, 2019
Pontocho Misoguigawa in Kyoto is a legend. Incredible Japanese/French fusion food served Kaiseki (懐石) style. If you miss your milk, butter, and cream while in Japan, just pay a visit.
Chef (and owner) Inoué Téruo is a delight and a master. His annual trips to France show in his cuisine.















先斗町通三条下ル Pontocho Misoguigawa pic.twitter.com/Qj1tw6V2fr
— noplasticshower (@noplasticshower) November 29, 2019
Hotel Kanra Kyoto: Japanese Style and Hospitality
September 17, 2017

Hotel Kanra Kyoto common area
What do you do when a plan completely falls apart? You refactor. Even in Japan. As it turned out our second Ryokan reservation was not for Kyoto but rather a small town 2.5 hours away in Kyoto province. Not figuring that out until the afternoon of the reservation was a eensy little problem.



Nishiki Market
No worries, there are plenty of nice hotels in Kyoto. So we stopped in a cafe for an espresso and a weird bird sighting and we found the Hotel Kanra.

Check out this guy’s feet
Hotel Kanra is very chic and stylish with an art vibe. We checked out two rooms and chose to stay in the annex in a small double. Room 301 looks like this.



The shower is not plastic, though it does include a plastic chair.

After checking in and charging up out devices we headed out for dinner at an incredible French/Japanese fusion restaurant called Misoguigawa. This is haute cuisine at its finest with French ingredients and Japanese service. Just wow.











On the way to the restaurant we walked through the Gion, then crossed the river and found the Stardust Club. There was live music, cigarette smoke, and much fun.




Gion



The next morning, it was off to see the Bamboo in Arashiyama.
For more bamboo, see apothecaryshed.
Then the bullet train back to Tokyo. We left enough time post-bamboo for sushi at the huge Kyoto station. NPS really enjoyed the sushi train.

Fuji peeks through the clouds
Four showerheads for Hotel Kanra Kyoto. A reasonable place for a quick night in Kyoto.
The Screen Hotel Kyoto
September 15, 2017
A quasi-hipster hotel in Kyoto? Why not. Due to refactoring dates we decided to stay at the Screen during our first night in Kyoto. We were not disappointed.

The Screen Kyoto
We arrived by Shinkansen.

Shinkansen view on the mountain side
Lobby design is a strong point at the Screen. In fact, design plays a major role everywhere on the property.

Room 202 is a special category room with a nice layout.




Sadly the shower has a shower curtain. Alas.



For dinner, NPS decided to dine on some Italian pizza at Pizza Salvatore which has outstanding pies made the Italian way. Pizza has cheese. Cheese is good (as are truffles and prosciutto). The staff yells “Buona sera” when you walk in.
On our way back home, we stopped by a local bar for some Shochu. Yoshi and his bandmate were fun company indeed. Drink Local!

Shochu? Why yes please,

Our new friend Yoshi (also our server)
The next day, we visited Fushimi Inari. Japanese shrines are incredible, and this one is top of the heap.

Fushimi Inari
We also had some outstanding ramen near the Nishiki Market.
Ramen and dumplings at Ippudo Nishikikuoji pic.twitter.com/7ZXPxgbn3V
— noplasticshower (@noplasticshower) September 14, 2017
Four showerheads and a glass shower upgrade for the Screen Hotel in Kyoto.













































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