The Peninsula Tokyo: Honeymoon Bookends
October 26, 2026
The Peninsula hotel is beautiful and turns out to be a better place to start a trip to Japan than to end one. But we are getting way ahead of ourselves.
First, an obligatory 777-200 pod shot.
Our arrival from Haneda was chaotic. Small airport, too many planes at once, customs lines crisscrossing, lots of people slipping between the cracks. Plus it was hot and stuffy. But the second that we emerged from Customs chaos, a Peninsula runner was there to greet us. We took a quick side trip to get cash from a 7-11 ATM and two Suica cards to use on trains, and then it was off to meet our loquacious driver.
The road signs were a hint of cultural differences to come.
The drive is very quick and particularly relaxing in a Toyota Century (built for salarymen at the top of the capitalist food chain). We were greeted by a swarm of at least 15 staff members who whisked away our luggage as we ourselves were whisked directly to room 1308. The checkin process was a bit overly thorough and dramatic…though we were ultimately left to shower and order some ramen from room service with zero lines.
There was honeymoon champagne and a nice note from the staff.
The suite with a city view was as nicely appointed as it was laid out.
No sign of plastic in the bathroom.
And a closet/dressing room that is second to none.
Romey appreciated the vegetable ramen option so much that she wanted it again on our second stay.
After dinner, we took the elevator up to the very purple and very ’90s Peter the bar. The view was as OK as the cocktails were overpriced.
The Peninsula is a particularly great place to use as a base of operations in Tokyo because it has metro access in the basement, and is an easy walk to Ginza.
We took the metro to Meiji-Jingu first thing in the morning after breakfast on day 1. Romey found the best organic breakfast in Japan right off the bat. The metro was very silent and orderly even at rush hour.
We did some jean shopping in Tokyo before lunch…at the wrong place that turned out to be the very much right place.
And had an excellent lunch at Yanmo.
Next up was a cab to Azabudai Hills to experience the teamlab borderless light extravaganza. Though there were really way too many people, we would do it again.
And then it was up to the Mori tower (not the JR Mori Tower, mind you) to watch the sun set over Tokyo and the red lights blink on.
This left us with enough time to go to the right jeans shop (which, as you already learned, was the wrong choice) to conjur up some personalized denim.
We returned exhausted enough to pick up some Chinese at Joe’s Shanghai New York.
The next morning we headed to Ginza 6 at its opening bell. Quite the scene.
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And then it was off to the rest of our adventure: Hakone, Takamatsu, Naoshima, Arima, and Kyoto.
We returned to the peninsula on our way out of Japan, arriving by anonymous taxi.
Lets just say that our greeting for the second arrival was entirely different. We were not whisked anywhere, but stood in line to be “upgraded” to a suite in the category we had already paid for (LOL). It seems the Peninsula mask slips a bit when you show up twice in one week by train station taxi.
We spent the last two nights in 1620 with a view of the Imperial Palace park (and its excellent sunset). We enjoyed spreading out (after requesting a nice set of hangars to use)…situation assessment was in order.
We definitely recommend the upgrade by money route.
Of course, it was us…so here is what high disorder looks like.
After arrival two, we headed out to see Zenkō-ji and the Omatesando neighborhood. We were on a quest for PJs and underwear.
To complete her quest, Romey joined an underground Tokyo underwear gang at Uniqlo.
And we had an outstanding, much-needed break at Bar Radio. Dark and quiet with a sophisticated clientele, Bar Radio is everything that Peter the bar is not.
More vegetarian ramen was on the agenda for our 9pm dinner. Guess whose biological clocks were completely synced?
Our last day in Japan was punctuated by high tourism. We started early at the Tokyo tourist mecca…the Tsukiji Outer Market. Get there before 9am (if you get there at all)! Somehow we stayed one step ahead of the tourist hordes all day.
By 9am, we had walked over to Hamarikyu Gardens for some matcha in the teahouse. Just as we left, 2 packed buses of tourists were unloading.
We bought some Hello Kitty stuff (waiting with a small group for the 11am opening ON THE DOT, and some heart things at Commes les Garçons.
And after a short respite at the hotel to freshen up it was off to fancy and very very early sushi dinner at Ginza Kyūbey Ginza Honten 銀座久兵衛 銀座 本店.
Our tourist-driven day was punctuated with a forgettable visit to Tender bar (skip it), and a quick hit to Don Quijote and the lights at Akihabara.
We cabbed home—touristed entirely out. Romey was in no mood for Peter—and neither was I.
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The next morning, it was last licks for the leisurely organic breakfast during which we decided to swing up to Sensō-ji temple on a quest to find Astro Boy and an off-season Yukata.
We took the very very crowded Ginza line back to the Peninsula (well sort of) and snagged a cab after exiting the wrong exit (thanks Claude).
Final packing time was upon us.
Our packing was coming along when we discovered that we needed a new suitcase to get everything home. So we went across the street to Proteca and picked up a new bag.
And then it was time to depart Japan. Arigatō gozaimasu! One great honeymoon.
Five shower heads and an upgrade you paid for yourself for the Peninsula Tokyo. (Things are always better when the mask stays in place.)
Raffles Boston
August 4, 2026
It’s not Singapore, of course, but there really is a Raffles in Boston. Last time we were in town for David Byrne, we stopped in for a very crowded drink at the upstairs speakeasy.
Of course, we know all about the real Raffles…and the Singapore Sling. It’s pretty hilarious to see this transplanted to Boston. But why not?! Can you say “wicked Sling???”
We are in 1007. This, they tell us, is an upgrade from our requested suite. We’re all for that kind of thing. Thanks y’all.
Extra bathroom.
Not one iota of plastic, of course. And shower pressure that will blow your hair plugs right out of your scalp…assuming you have some.
So how goes it Raffles? It goes, as Sammy would say, pretty not bad. The space is excellent and the staff is top notch. But there are some things that could use some attention and maybe refactoring.
1007 could use some closet space. And engineering needs to fix the drapery. The real problem is inscrutable electronic controls. How do you set the AC to anything less than hurricane? Who knows? And lights? Just press buttons randomly until something happens. About the only other place with these kinds of UI electricity challenges is the College Hotel in Amsterdam.
Greeted with a personal note and a cocktail. Very nice touch. And the Butler thing is actually great. Our man Thomas was hugely helpful and made our visit noticeably better.
Bottom line? Excellent staff (and attention to staff development as well—which we witnessed while working in the libary) but some physical plant work required.
FWIW, the spa is apparently great. Go do that. Ask for Paula. (Side note: if you would like to buy some house perfume and then fly. LOL. Good luck with that. Hotel? Travel size for flyers is pretty much mandatory.)
Oh, and the Long Bar space? Lets upgrade that breakfast menu. Great bar, though. And excellent staff. (The menu could use a dose of the rest of the world…see the Chicago Peninsula.)
Blind Duck was empty and nice when we showed up at opening time. They served this sweet blue thing…
On rainy Monday, we spent some retail therapy time in Copley, the Pru, and then—when it cleared up—Newbury. Then we went to dinner at a very crowded and touristy Saltie Girl (recommended by the concierge/front desk). It’s overly Newbury. If you like being surrounded by people from out of town, this restaurant is for you!
Tuesday was La Padrona (where their computer texts you in Italian but does not like or even understand Italian answers). Delicious food—first time for pistachio lasagna. In the end, really quite poor space layout (our table was in a bizarre booth over in the margins) and staff that needs to be trained (they seem to forget who is paying). This is really more of a Boston issue than a La Padrona issue. Boston’s high end restaurant scene is no longer anywhere near the top edge in our experience. Time to get out of the little pond and see what the big fish are doing out there in the rest of the world, Boston.
Charlie’s is still a dive, but they raised their prices to make some margin. THey have grits!
The neighborhood (and exact apartment) of yore.
Five showerheads and some wicked new hairplugs for Raffles Boston (assuming you used to have those). We’ll be back.
Mimi’s in London: Soho in Ship Shape
August 4, 2026
NPS found Mimi‘s accidentally when in London seeking a Soho cocktail at Henson’s bar. We found great cocktails and also an incredible pile of art. So we figured we would try out Mimi’s on the next London run.
It’s ship shape. Literally. rooms the same size as a cabin on a 42 foot Beneteau. LOL. Lets just say that my partner in crime was not amused. Fortunately it was a quick hit with only a few quick changes.
But we’re not exaggerating about the art. See for yourself.
And it’s a good bar too.
But that was not ENOUGH art. So we went to see some Escher.
We tried to shoot a movie, but the talent was not cooperating.
How do you say “Action!” in Italian?
Faraday seems to be trapped in some kind of cage.
The American bar…take one.
Varvatos has become a regular stop.
The Connaught…though michael has moved to Zurich. Alas for Jacob.
This sign says it all.
Wait…are you SERIOUSLY trying to wear shorts into Duke’s past the woman in the drapery?! Impossible.
The American Bar does not care.
And then a captivating and stimulating version of Arcadia (one of Stoppard’s masterpieces).
So nice to spend time with Noelie and Lisa and Jacob. Romey and I are lucky to have you all.
“The ordinary-sized stuff which is our lives, the things people write poetry about—clouds—daffodils—waterfalls—what happens in a cup of coffee when the cream goes in—these things are full of mystery, as mysterious to us as the heavens were to the Greeks.”
― Tom Stoppard, Arcadia
Five very very small stars for Mimi’s
San Francisco: The Huntington Hotel Rides Again
June 4, 2026
The Huntington Hotel has some history…including time you did not want to stay there. But it’s back, and swanker than ever.
We were assigned a king corner suite room (number 404) which was spacious and nice, but could use a better design eye when it comes to furnishings.
The bathroom is marble and glass and just a smidge impersonal.
Downstairs, breakfast is superb.
We had some fun with Uncle Jim.
After breakfast we visited the Minnesota Street gallery for some art.
We also visited the David Ireland House.
After a dinner with Cade at Amber India, there was a crazy mixology stop with Jacques to open Bar Esper at Hotel Spiro. That was really fun, but hanging out with bartenders is not something to do lightly.
The Chartreuse Swizzle invented in 2003 by American bartender Marcovaldo Dionysos.
1 1⁄2 oz Green Chartreuse (or alternative herbal liqueur)
1⁄2 oz Falernum liqueur
1 1⁄2 oz Pineapple juice
3⁄4 fl oz Lime juice (freshly squeezed)
Pre-chill a COLLINS GLASS. Prepare garnish of pineapple wedge speared with a Luxardo Maraschino Cherry and grated nutmeg. POUR all ingredients into chilled glass and two-thirds fill with crushed ice. SWIZZLE and then fill the glass with more crushed ice. Add more crushed ice to fill glass and SWIZZLE some more.
Somehow things ended up at Rye.
Anyway, everyone lived and it was off to Sonoma in the morning for more.
Five showerheads and less ridiculous AI for the Huntington. We’ll be back.
A San Diego Gem: The Orli Hotel
June 4, 2026
is an absolute gem. Of course, being situated in La Jolla is no detriment to the property.
Flying in to San Diego brings back lots of memories.
The weather is still on that same VHS tape loop from the 1970s. “Tomorrow, the weather will be perfect.”
I was assigned the Irving Gill Penthouse. Two stories with a balcony overlooking the Pacific.
The garden area is comfortable and pretty.
Glass shower? Yes, in the now famous death star design.
Upstairs is a small bar.
Sunset balcony.
On the first night, Alex and I headed to the Realm of the 52 Remedies for some craft cocktails. Excellent.
A visit to the QPS summit is always a blast. Five showerheads for the Orli and hope for a timely return with my spouse.
Alexandria Hotel AKA
April 27, 2026
My friend Steph Vogel is at it again, rebooing a hotel. This time the crufty old Holiday Inn is getting repurposed as an AKA. We are not really the right demographic here as we are completely allergic to hamster cages. But lots of people getting married are the right demographic.
You can tell Steph is in charge because the staff is excellent and friendly and fun. But honestly we don’t believe Steph exists. He has been replaced by an LLM.
We were in a king deluxe with a lil balcony overlooking the late night wedding reception. 200-something. But hey, things are just as super slick as they are very rectangular.
We were properly greeted with a nice note and some delicious chocolates.
No sign of plastic in the bathroom which is a fine design.
Anyway. We were here for Florence and the Machine. Early dinner at The Magestic was great. Their cocktail progrem is top notch.
Midnight in Manhattan
Saffron Spirit
The show was fun (lots of pics and vids here).
Breakfast at Milk and Honey was just fine but nothing to write home about.
Four showerheads (which for a property like this is as high as it gets) for the AKA in Alexandria. Time for Steph to take over a Penisula in Tokyo!
Amsterdam Gem and Dining Haven: Hotel Okura
March 4, 2026
Usually Japanese five star hotels have something to teach the world about hospitality. Impeccable staffs. Modern design. Fine dining. The Okura has it all…almost. So close.
We were assigned room 2009, a junior suite (with an emphasis on junior). The room includes a beautiful canal view over the city, a closet that is slightly too small with too few hangers and that insists on closing itself, an HVAC system with a mind of its own, and a rectangular design familiar to hamsters everywhere. But the bathroom is nice. The shower is glass excellence. The toilet is properly complicated with its own remote control. The TV remains off. And the bed is comfortable.
When the couch and the bed are separated by a desk, you may apparently declare yourself a suite.
There was a personalized note.
The bathroom is very well appointed but architecturally stuck in hyatt mode. That beige is so HOA.
But the shower? Yes please.
Our check in was facilitated by a young woman who was in over her head. Could we arrange a boat ride? The public internet says no when she clicks a website or two. But then the concierge gets word of it and a private boat does indeed appear. Training training. I wonder if we might have scored an upgrade had someone else checked us in.
We stashed our stuff in the too small closet, phoning down for some hangers.
First some oysters. Our experience at Serre was marred by one loud talking Flemish businessman on his phone—the only other table in the restaurant. The staff, being utterly powerless to intervene, helped us switch tables. Why were we the ones to switch? Management would probably know, but there wasn’t any.
At 7pm we met our captain in the lobby for a boat ride just after dark. Absolutely excellent. We had champagne. We saw Amsterdam in a new light. The Okura has its own docking.
On birthday morning, Romey put cards everywhere. One or two showed up only the next day! So sweet. Like a banana.
The excellent hosts at breakfast knew all about our birthday too. In fact, the breakfast staff (even the flummoxed one who we lied to on the last day) were all very good. We were greeted by name each morning. There was a cake (this became a theme of the trip with four cakes all told).
Then it was off with Noelie and Lisa for a walk through town. Followed by the BIG SURPRISE which somehow Noelie and I kept secret for several months (a new record for us)…Florence and the Machine at the Ziggo.
The show was excellent and was our real reason for being in Amsterdam.
Sadly on birthday night, after our delayed return from the Ziggo, we were turned away on 23 WELL BEFORE CLOSING by a persnickety French guy. We did not like this one bit. It was all papered over later by Markus Vennemann who got to the bottom of it all over email. But really. Do better Okura.
We went to a dive bar instead and had a great time teaching the young bartender how to make a Toronto and a General’s Orders (after we sent him to the back to dig out the Fernet). Much fun was had.
All in all, 23 was great. Paul remembered Noelie from 9 years earlier. And our server Jean-Paul who greeted Romey and me on the first evening before the boat ride was just outstanding.
We even had a reunion.
It was downstairs after several martinis to Yamazato—the Japanese restaurant still in very high regard (and one of Florence’s favorites from years gone by. We had so much fun that the wait staff was not quite sure what to do with us.
The next morning came quite early, this day slated for a visit to the Rijkmuseum (somehow we need to remember not to go here) and the excellent modern art at the Moca. (We were too late to pull the trigger for Van Gogh, but we will be back and it will still be there.)
Breakfast was once again delightful. But by far the most fun part of the day before dinner was removing the TikTok girls from posing on the window ledge bench. So much fun. “Zero friends, zero likes?! What the hell??”
A second highlight of the trip and one of the best meals of a lifetime happened next. The chef’s table at Ciel Bleu is an experience not to miss. Chef Arjan Speelman is a super genius. He is also a genuinely nice person.
A planned visit to Door 74 was postponed due to utter bliss.
The next day we drove to Lichtervelde with Madou at the wheel, refamiliarizing ourselves with the bleating of sheep.
All told the Okura was a very good base of operations for our Amsterdam birthday leg. We would issue five showerheads, but it’s almost closing time. So four stars and some training improvement requested by management. Is there management? We may return.
The Georgian is IT Again: Santa Monica’s Hippest Hangout
February 7, 2026
This is the sort of thing that probably happens to the Georgian once every 20 years or so—a nice facelift and a house full of hipsters. Built in 1933 or so, the ages come in waves. The sun is back up at the Georgian.
Last time NPS was here, things were at stasis. But not this time! This time there was an art opening attended by so many people that they didn’t fit. And there was a line on Friday night for the new nightclub downstairs. Who knew? And the bar was always hopping.
I was assigned an excellent backwards facing suite on the 4th floor. The parking garage view is not to die for.
There were cookies and a personalized note.
There was an old school bar.
There was a living room.
And the shower? Excellent.
Breakfast at Cora’s (a tradition now) was great.
R2 was great this iteration. A blast to see everyone and drink wine together. This time there was so much extra wine that we left two cases to the wait staff for “the best tip we ever had.”
Later we went to see the sunset in the city.
And we had a secret tiki cocktail at Tail O the Pup’s hidden Lucky Tiki.
Finally Rivers Family dinner at Escuela was great.
An all around excellent visit, five showerheads, some energy, and a big mass of hipsters at the Georgian. We’ll be back.
The Wilmina in Berlin: A Design Gem
January 16, 2026
Our train across Germany to Berlin was easy and fast, and we arrived at sunset. Our Berlin welcome involved drizzle. The Wilmina glowed with welcome.
Room 107 is a garden view room, spacious and clean, but configured for handicap access.
Each room in the hotel was adapted from some aspect of a historical women’s prison.
Though the shower was not plastic, it was not glass either. It was mostly too big.
What a property.
The bar is something to write home about. Absolute world class excellence with house made infusions and highly creative cocktails. Best hotel bar in Germany for sure.
Time for some reading by the fire.
The associated bakery.
We were only in Berlin for a short while, but we crammed in some great food, some excellent company, and some art. Seri Melayu was a nice reprive from brown food. The House of Small Wonder lives up to its reputation. Itarei was good but needs a service and wine overhaul.
Four showerheads leaning hard into five for the Wilmina. If we find the right room, the rating will improve.
Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh with Billy Strings and Bear
November 11, 2025
As you may recall, we got married this May (on five fives) and the hotel Monaco was our base of operations. We have a special place in our hearts for Pittsburgh and for the Monaco. Our most recent visit did not disappoint.
I mean not only were we in town to see Billy Strings play two great shows. We also chatted with Billy Strings himself and his dog Bear in the elevator. He is a sweet guy and his dog is awesome. The encounter made us miss our own goldendoodle, Maybelline, even more.
Since the band was in town and there was at least one wedding full of fraternity type people in the house, there were no suites to be had at reservation time. That is, unless Rob Malinger is pulling strings for you. Always have Rob pull strings. He is all powerful! We were put in 318 this time.
Which like most Monaco suites features lots of room, a cool bathroom, and a birdcage (of the sort that apparently flummoxes Madou).
Sydney wrote us a nice note and had an amenity placed in our room. Thanks Sydney.
The shower in 318 has its own internal bathtub.
Getting in and out of the hotel was “fucktangular” this visit. When we arrived it was rush hour and raining. And there were idiots from Tennessee with very huge jeep wagoneers (but no actual moxy) trying to lead us into the left. After waiting 8 lights we just went around them and taught them how to turn left on red. LOL. Then on Saturday morning we had to refactor our breakfast plans when the car took over two hours to get from the parking lot to the valet stand (due to a veterans day parade). It really was not awful but it was also not convenient. Only in Pittsburgh.
We headed straight to dinner when we arrived so we could get to the show. The mushroom thing at the Commoner is great. The show was very good indeed. So fun to be with our Billy Strings expert Betty.
We had some coffee at De Fer before the commoner was open.
And we went to the Mattress Factory for a dose of contemporary art.
And Randyland of course…
Then it was back to Billy after a very early dinner at Ritual House. Betty was in true outstanding leadership mode for this one. We secured some special bands and entered in the first 100 to hang with the true Billy fans. One fella had seen 333 shows! The people were really welcoming and friendly. And yeah, they knew all the songs and everyone around us. It was great. We owe Betty a big one now.
After each show we had a night cap in the Commoner and met some fellow Billy enthusiasts. Great bar.
On Sunday we made our leisurely way to Gepetto for breakfast, the headed out through Maggie’s Farm Distillery.
Five showerheads and special dispensation for the Monaco. Pittsburgh just gets better and better.
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