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Alexandria Hotel AKA

April 27, 2026

My friend Steph Vogel is at it again, rebooing a hotel. This time the crufty old Holiday Inn is getting repurposed as an AKA. We are not really the right demographic here as we are completely allergic to hamster cages. But lots of people getting married are the right demographic.

You can tell Steph is in charge because the staff is excellent and friendly and fun. But honestly we don’t believe Steph exists. He has been replaced by an LLM.

We were in a king deluxe with a lil balcony overlooking the late night wedding reception. 200-something. But hey, things are just as super slick as they are very rectangular.

We were properly greeted with a nice note and some delicious chocolates.

No sign of plastic in the bathroom which is a fine design.

Anyway. We were here for Florence and the Machine. Early dinner at The Magestic was great. Their cocktail progrem is top notch.


Midnight in Manhattan


Saffron Spirit

The show was fun (lots of pics and vids here).

Breakfast at Milk and Honey was just fine but nothing to write home about.

Four showerheads (which for a property like this is as high as it gets) for the AKA in Alexandria. Time for Steph to take over a Penisula in Tokyo!

Usually Japanese five star hotels have something to teach the world about hospitality. Impeccable staffs. Modern design. Fine dining. The Okura has it all…almost. So close.

We were assigned room 2009, a junior suite (with an emphasis on junior). The room includes a beautiful canal view over the city, a closet that is slightly too small with too few hangers and that insists on closing itself, an HVAC system with a mind of its own, and a rectangular design familiar to hamsters everywhere. But the bathroom is nice. The shower is glass excellence. The toilet is properly complicated with its own remote control. The TV remains off. And the bed is comfortable.

When the couch and the bed are separated by a desk, you may apparently declare yourself a suite.

There was a personalized note.

The bathroom is very well appointed but architecturally stuck in hyatt mode. That beige is so HOA.

But the shower? Yes please.

Our check in was facilitated by a young woman who was in over her head. Could we arrange a boat ride? The public internet says no when she clicks a website or two. But then the concierge gets word of it and a private boat does indeed appear. Training training. I wonder if we might have scored an upgrade had someone else checked us in.

We stashed our stuff in the too small closet, phoning down for some hangers.

First some oysters. Our experience at Serre was marred by one loud talking Flemish businessman on his phone—the only other table in the restaurant. The staff, being utterly powerless to intervene, helped us switch tables. Why were we the ones to switch? Management would probably know, but there wasn’t any.

At 7pm we met our captain in the lobby for a boat ride just after dark. Absolutely excellent. We had champagne. We saw Amsterdam in a new light. The Okura has its own docking.

On birthday morning, Romey put cards everywhere. One or two showed up only the next day! So sweet. Like a banana.

The excellent hosts at breakfast knew all about our birthday too. In fact, the breakfast staff (even the flummoxed one who we lied to on the last day) were all very good. We were greeted by name each morning. There was a cake (this became a theme of the trip with four cakes all told).

Then it was off with Noelie and Lisa for a walk through town. Followed by the BIG SURPRISE which somehow Noelie and I kept secret for several months (a new record for us)…Florence and the Machine at the Ziggo.

The show was excellent and was our real reason for being in Amsterdam.

Sadly on birthday night, after our delayed return from the Ziggo, we were turned away on 23 WELL BEFORE CLOSING by a persnickety French guy. We did not like this one bit. It was all papered over later by Markus Vennemann who got to the bottom of it all over email. But really. Do better Okura.

We went to a dive bar instead and had a great time teaching the young bartender how to make a Toronto and a General’s Orders (after we sent him to the back to dig out the Fernet). Much fun was had.

All in all, 23 was great. Paul remembered Noelie from 9 years earlier. And our server Jean-Paul who greeted Romey and me on the first evening before the boat ride was just outstanding.

We even had a reunion.

It was downstairs after several martinis to Yamazato—the Japanese restaurant still in very high regard (and one of Florence’s favorites from years gone by. We had so much fun that the wait staff was not quite sure what to do with us.

The next morning came quite early, this day slated for a visit to the Rijkmuseum (somehow we need to remember not to go here) and the excellent modern art at the Moca. (We were too late to pull the trigger for Van Gogh, but we will be back and it will still be there.)

Breakfast was once again delightful. But by far the most fun part of the day before dinner was removing the TikTok girls from posing on the window ledge bench. So much fun. “Zero friends, zero likes?! What the hell??”

A second highlight of the trip and one of the best meals of a lifetime happened next. The chef’s table at Ciel Bleu is an experience not to miss. Chef Arjan Speelman is a super genius. He is also a genuinely nice person.

A planned visit to Door 74 was postponed due to utter bliss.

The next day we drove to Lichtervelde with Madou at the wheel, refamiliarizing ourselves with the bleating of sheep.

All told the Okura was a very good base of operations for our Amsterdam birthday leg. We would issue five showerheads, but it’s almost closing time. So four stars and some training improvement requested by management. Is there management? We may return.

This is the sort of thing that probably happens to the Georgian once every 20 years or so—a nice facelift and a house full of hipsters. Built in 1933 or so, the ages come in waves. The sun is back up at the Georgian.

Last time NPS was here, things were at stasis. But not this time! This time there was an art opening attended by so many people that they didn’t fit. And there was a line on Friday night for the new nightclub downstairs. Who knew? And the bar was always hopping.

I was assigned an excellent backwards facing suite on the 4th floor. The parking garage view is not to die for.

There were cookies and a personalized note.

There was an old school bar.

There was a living room.

And the shower? Excellent.

Breakfast at Cora’s (a tradition now) was great.

R2 was great this iteration. A blast to see everyone and drink wine together. This time there was so much extra wine that we left two cases to the wait staff for “the best tip we ever had.”

Later we went to see the sunset in the city.

And we had a secret tiki cocktail at Tail O the Pup’s hidden Lucky Tiki.

Finally Rivers Family dinner at Escuela was great.

An all around excellent visit, five showerheads, some energy, and a big mass of hipsters at the Georgian. We’ll be back.

Our train across Germany to Berlin was easy and fast, and we arrived at sunset. Our Berlin welcome involved drizzle. The Wilmina glowed with welcome.

Room 107 is a garden view room, spacious and clean, but configured for handicap access.

Each room in the hotel was adapted from some aspect of a historical women’s prison.

Though the shower was not plastic, it was not glass either. It was mostly too big.

What a property.

The bar is something to write home about. Absolute world class excellence with house made infusions and highly creative cocktails. Best hotel bar in Germany for sure.

Time for some reading by the fire.

The associated bakery.

We were only in Berlin for a short while, but we crammed in some great food, some excellent company, and some art. Seri Melayu was a nice reprive from brown food. The House of Small Wonder lives up to its reputation. Itarei was good but needs a service and wine overhaul.

Four showerheads leaning hard into five for the Wilmina. If we find the right room, the rating will improve.

As you may recall, we got married this May (on five fives) and the hotel Monaco was our base of operations. We have a special place in our hearts for Pittsburgh and for the Monaco. Our most recent visit did not disappoint.

I mean not only were we in town to see Billy Strings play two great shows. We also chatted with Billy Strings himself and his dog Bear in the elevator. He is a sweet guy and his dog is awesome. The encounter made us miss our own goldendoodle, Maybelline, even more.

Since the band was in town and there was at least one wedding full of fraternity type people in the house, there were no suites to be had at reservation time. That is, unless Rob Malinger is pulling strings for you. Always have Rob pull strings. He is all powerful! We were put in 318 this time.

Which like most Monaco suites features lots of room, a cool bathroom, and a birdcage (of the sort that apparently flummoxes Madou).

Sydney wrote us a nice note and had an amenity placed in our room. Thanks Sydney.

The shower in 318 has its own internal bathtub.

Getting in and out of the hotel was “fucktangular” this visit. When we arrived it was rush hour and raining. And there were idiots from Tennessee with very huge jeep wagoneers (but no actual moxy) trying to lead us into the left. After waiting 8 lights we just went around them and taught them how to turn left on red. LOL. Then on Saturday morning we had to refactor our breakfast plans when the car took over two hours to get from the parking lot to the valet stand (due to a veterans day parade). It really was not awful but it was also not convenient. Only in Pittsburgh.

We headed straight to dinner when we arrived so we could get to the show. The mushroom thing at the Commoner is great. The show was very good indeed. So fun to be with our Billy Strings expert Betty.

We had some coffee at De Fer before the commoner was open.

And we went to the Mattress Factory for a dose of contemporary art.

And Randyland of course…

Then it was back to Billy after a very early dinner at Ritual House. Betty was in true outstanding leadership mode for this one. We secured some special bands and entered in the first 100 to hang with the true Billy fans. One fella had seen 333 shows! The people were really welcoming and friendly. And yeah, they knew all the songs and everyone around us. It was great. We owe Betty a big one now.

After each show we had a night cap in the Commoner and met some fellow Billy enthusiasts. Great bar.

On Sunday we made our leisurely way to Gepetto for breakfast, the headed out through Maggie’s Farm Distillery.

Five showerheads and special dispensation for the Monaco. Pittsburgh just gets better and better.

First of all, the Rosewood is a gorgeous facility, centrally located in São Paulo and yet somehow an oasis of sorts. Two blocks from the main drag (Av. Paulista), as soon as you enter the driveway you enter a different world, lush and green like the jungle. Having an oasis to retreat to from the chaotic third world aspects of São Paulo is a necessity when you are old and spoiled.

344 is a luxury king category that is almost sufficient for several days. The best aspect is a balcony that overlooks the real street. In case you wonder whether you are actually in a big city, a look out the window banks makes that clear. Fortunately the room is seriously soundproofed.

The bathroom is awesome with nary a plastic shower in sight. In fact, the shower controls are complex enough to require a manual.

The bar and coffee center went unused.

We spent some time at the pool, meeting people sadly from Florida (or as from Florida as you can get when you are a french boat designer with a Russian designer wife

The only issue that needs attention at the Rosewood may, ironically, be that the staff is a bit too well trained. Lots of them are Disney alums, and it shows in the way they execute the script. Less script and more human would fit the vibe of Brazil better.

We experienced our first Brazilian live music at Cabo de Galo, a supposedly “secret” mixology speakeasy directly in the middle of the breakfast restaurant. Part of the Disneyesque script is to insert an unnecessary delay in all productions in order to give the illusion of exclusivity; like waiting for an open table to be open; or waiting to be seated at breakfast when open tables are all over the place. That stitch can be dropped.

Hell? Maybe.

We enjoyed some cashaça. (Throughout Brazil, the argument WRT whose cashaça is best continues apace even 20 years after my first visit.)

And a Brazilian cocktail involving not enough Fernet called macunaíma.

Greater São Paulo outside the Rosewood oasis has plenty to offer. Some things we saw before our arrival at the Rosewood, like the Jardim Botânico and Esperanza Spalding.

Our post-business side quests included some time in Liberdade at the open market (pretty down scale to be honest).

Av. Paulista. is close by and on Sunday the road is closed to traffic. The MASP (day one) (and MASP (day two)) are very close by indeed. Pinacoteca de São Paulo is a quick car ride away in the rain, and it is open on Monday.

We experienced an incredible dinner (among the best in the world) at DOM.

All in all, five showerheads for the Rosewood. An excellent, though slightly too Disney, experience. We will return.

The Monaco in Pittsburgh has always held a special place in NPS circuits. We stayed at the property way back when it first opened. And then we stayed at the property on an important first date. Throughout every stay, the Kimpton flame kept burning bright and true, even through the IHG corporate nonsense. Rob Mallinger is an excellent GM.

So, of course, the Monaco was top of mind when we decided to get married at the Warhol in Pittsburgh on 5.25.25. What better place to put on a world class party and put up our guests (none of whom were from Pittsburgh)?! Rob and his staff did a spectacular job making our complex plans burst into life with great attention to detail.

We especially thank Allan Hughes (room czar) and Sydney Kurywchak (catering) and their respective staffs for their diligent effort to make our guests feel as if no effort at all was involved. You made our day(s) amazing. Thank you.

We put all of our guests up in the hotel on the night of our wedding, assigning each guest a particular room on the eighth or ninth floors. Having everyone all together was a special touch. So in some sense NPS has “stayed” in each and every room on the upper floors of the Monaco. Allan did an amazing job coaxing the computer system into doing what we envisioned.

Of course we started in 835 before moving up to the Emperor Suite for our wedding day. (Allan pulled some strings and got us moved Saturday so that we didn’t have to switch rooms on our wedding day itself…which was a big relief for the bride.)

We’ve shared plenty of pictures of 835 in other entries, and we were too busy to properly document the Emperor Suite, so these will have to suffice.

We held two separate events at the Monaco, a rooftop champagne toast (replete with a piper), and a wild reception in the big rooms downstairs, expertly transformed by Alexis Allen into different realities. Just wow.

Here’s how the rooftop looked for cocktail hour. Also see this posting.

Everyone moved downstairs for the reception, which started in Sheffield Ballroom and then proceeded by stages into the Sheffield foyer to the Sophia Ballroom. Each space was differently decorated, with the foyer reserved for dancing to DJ Williams’s amazing music and the Sophia set up as a late night speakeasy.  Also see this posting.

Moving guests around throughout the wedding day made for a delightful experience. We all started out at the Warhol, and then proceeded through the Monaco spaces until midnight.

It was an incredible lifetime event for all involved.

Six showerheads (out of five max) for the Hotel Monaco. We’ll always remember this hotel with great fondness.  Thanks you guys!

We’re in town for a TAB meeting attended by nobody even remotely from Georgia. So we all arrived from everywhere and convened at the Alida. The tribute portfolio properties by Marriott are designed to attract middle management and they execute their mission to a T. They try so hard to be hip that they miss by a mile—like coming to a chess game with a bag of checkers.

NPS was assigned a long skinny room on the ground floor (102) with a window bank overlooking the pool. You might thing that sounds fun, but in their quest to “be young,” the Alida pipes crappy music of no discernible genre into the pool area 24/7. At 4am, that sucks. Hazy bass thomp and ever repeating generic rhythms are so much worse than NY city noise or even, say, silence deep in the night.

As you can see by the pictures, what we have here is standard hamster cage. Who even uses two king beds in one room?!

The bathroom shower situation seems to be becoming common now. The shower features a glass door (nice) but the shower stall is hollow plastic simulated tile. Cheap. We’re trying to decide whether that constitutes the new “plastic shower” of which we want none.

But we are in Savannah and we’re not here to sleep. Perhaps a Negroni will help?

I mean there is one of those fireplace things that runs on gas (also near the pool). We wonder if it burns all night as the music thomps to itself.

The meeting was excellent, though the room down by the restaurant in the basement is cold. The A/V system down there is ungovernable by usual algorithms it seems.

We had some time in the morning to see the trees and walk up to Forsyth after breakfast at the ’80s themed Traylor Park. The newish southern chain is fun, but the trees are magical. And the trees in the morning fog are otherworldly.

More trees here.

Tea at Gryphon (worth a visit).

Lunch at Wright Square Bistro was excellent. Coffee at the Coffee Fox. Later, dinner at Husk was really fun but not really up to Savannah standards it turns out.

Late night cocktails and planning at Congress Street Up were outstanding. (We did not attempt the museum nonsense.) As we discussed how AI is taking over software development, Regan Cannon made us a Good Advice:
1 oz Hayman’s Old Tom
.5 oz Plymouth Navy Strength
.5 oz CioCiaro
.75 oz Ciocci Bianco
2 dashes orange bitters (unspecified)
2 dashes cardamom bitters (Boizers)
absynthe spray
Orange and lemon peel expressed and dropped in.

All told we were here for work, and work was excellent.

Three showerheads and an off switch for the all night music for the Alida. Too corporate for Savannah. But we were not done with Savannah…it was off to the Brice!

Fancy some art in Chicago? Stay at the Peninsula in high luxury while you’re there! Our visit to the city was excellent in most of the ways.

Of course our room was not ready when we arrived before noon on Sunday, and then the powers that be switched our assigned room out from under us while we visited the MCA. The switch was very much likely for the better as we moved from an executive suite on 12 to a grand deluxe suite on 9.

The room was, in fact, amazing. Comfortable, well-designed, modern, and spacious. We were in 910 overlooking the Water Tower and Michigan avenue.  Christmas was upon us (and winter too).

910 has banks of windows.

The shower is not plastic. In fact, there might not be any plastic at all in the entire room.

One of the best aspects of the peninsula is breakfast. No really. Just exquisite and interesting: fresh juice, great coffee, myriad international offerings.  Possibly the best breakfast in Chicago.  We had two.

The MCA is terrific, including the Maripol restaurant inside.

Tiffany is a good place to visit after some art.

The Art Institute of Chicago is absolutely world class.

Duck Duck Goat is very good mid-level Chinese. Sadly, we couldn’t get the Peking duck.

About the only thing not up to snuff during our visit was pizza at Pequod (an old school Chicago deep dish institution). The pizza is great, but the decor is dirty even for an old Denny’s. And the ordering app? Don’t get us started. Just skip it.

Cocktails at the Peninsula bar, Z bar, are solid, but the experience is not worth writing home about or paying extra for.

Oh, and the Spa at the Peninsula…your mileage may very, but your bill will not.

But those wrinkles aside, the trip was excellent.  Here are some more pictures.

Rebranding Chicago, one building at a time.

The view from 910.

The windows are really clean. Really really clean.

Five showerheads for the Peninsula and for Chicago art. Yes please. We would do it all over again.

Terre Haute, Indiana

October 31, 2024

Welp, its not a hotel, but if you can, stay at Sid’s house. Terre Haute was a really fun place to visit.

It all started with a talk at Rose-Hulman Institute of Technology, which you can watch here.

The campus is full of art.

And it features the largest collection of hot sauce in the entire Midwest.

There is world class mixology to be found between the beers in Terre Haute. Try Bar Bosco if you can.

And dinner at J Ford’s Black Angus is not to be missed. The wine list has some secret hidden gems. We split the porterhouse.

But really the best thing in Terre Haute is Sid’s Waffle House.

In and out through Indy. A picture courtesy of Kurt.