There was that pandemic thing that put a kibosh on business travel. Some hotels and hotel chains (looking at you Kimpton) slumped, starting with their customer experience department. I mean, no customers so no customer service? Or something wrong like that. Others rose to the occasion. The Umstead Hotel in Cary, NC rose to the occasion. Well done Umstead!
First off, the hotel remembered that we have stayed on their property before. They left a note. They provided an excellent room. The only problem was not a problem at all…that was that arrival was rushed due to late aircraft arrival and there was no time to appreciate the calm ritual of the umstead. In the end, it all worked out.
After delivering a 6:30pm lecture, it was back to the Umstead and its world class restaurant, Herons, for dinner. Just wow. Excellent food. Impeccable service. Great company. Dinner could not have been better executed.
The Prix Fixe dinner menu is world class, and fun too. Elk, caviar, fois gras, and a cheese desert that was a blast.
Then it was up to 512 (a garden view balcony room) for some sleep on birthday eve.
NPS was greeted with presents hidden away in our luggage. Yay! Birthday. (NPS is 38 for those of you wondering.)
What else is there to do around Cary on your birthday? Well there is Krispy Kreme.
And a visit to the NCSU lab.
A little too secure if you don’t have an ID card.
Then a VERY early dinner with Michael Rappa, who once again is always right about restaurant choice. Stanbury is fantastic.
After dinner it was back to Cary for a nightcap at Mayton Inn‘s bar. Fernet was available. The waitress was a newb.
Birthday fernet shot with a server in three pictures (her first) pic.twitter.com/rRhkMv1ySU
— noplasticshower (@noplasticshower) February 26, 2022
All in all, a great celebratory day with three renditions of the happy birthday song…all terrible.
A walk in the park was in order before flying back home. Umstead State Park is built around an old Mill complex. A nice warm day for a walk.
Hurray for a visit with bright young grad students!
Five showerheads and a fervent wish for an early return (or maybe often…or maybe both).
Back in Oslo at the Hotel Christiania Teater
November 20, 2021
Being back on the road again is so good! And we’re not even stuck in the good old US of A. Oslo even! When in Olso, NPS always likes to use the Hotel Christiania Teater as the base of operations. Heck, we even know our favorite room (620) which not only has an interesting shower but also features non-rectangular architecture.
Be forewarned, however, that the “getting into Norway” thing at this phase of the global pandemic is non-trivial. The rules are tricky and they don’t have things set up for Americans to visit. The problem is the EU covid passport requirement. Since the good old US of A has its own digital records system (times 50, one for each state) there is no way to get the QR code signed by the EU authority.
What we did to prepare was download digital records from the Virginia Department of Health for vaccines (NPS is triple vaxxed) and then store them in the Common Health app on our phone. We did the same thing with covid test results generated the day that we flew (get them done less than 24 hours before entering Norway). Make sure you practice pulling up the records and displaying the QR code when the police ask you for it at the gate of your arriving plane! And practice being super nice and explaining, “well, these are the records my government makes available.”
That’s right, even though we were flying in through the EU and had been admitted into Germany with our records with no issue at all, the police met the EU-origin plane in Oslo and asked all passengers for passports and vaccination/testing documents. After ten minutes of “sweating it” in the hall, we were admitted.
Getting to the hotel from the airport is a breeze. Just take the express train in from the airport and go one stop past the central station. Even though we arrived a bit too early for checkin (which is a 3pm), the wait for room cleaning final check was only 10 minutes.
Then it was up to 620 to shower off the metal tube and start the attempt to stay up until at least 20:00.
Here is the bathroom from 620, built next to one of the cupola rooms. The shower is over a huge stone tub inside the shower room area. Very not plastic, and a very nice shower indeed.
Here’s the rest of the room.
Covid has put a small damper on the bar at the hotel, which is still good but is not as relaxing and excellent as it used to be. We’ll hope that gets back to normal when the pandemic is over.
Breakfast is fantastic. A beautiful room, a machine that makes fresh orange juice, excellent espresso drinks, and, well, just a great spread. Sneaking in for breakfast would be a good move.
But we are getting ahead of ourselves. First we had to stay up. So we started at the bar with an arbitrarily constructed not very good Negroni (how can you fuck that one up?!), and moved on to an Indian restaurant in search of spicy food.
Seeing my friend Gøran was a great pleasure. The food at The Great India was plenty hot, the wine was good, and they made a much better Negroni. Soon it was time to slink off to bed and crash for 10 hours straight.
The next day, after an excellent breakfast and a visit with the orange smashing machine, it was time for some work in Oslo.
Visiting @TranscendentGr in Oslo and talking #MLsec pic.twitter.com/UvLrf4TRSI
— Gary McGraw (@cigitalgem) November 17, 2021
And then it was out into Oslo with friends old and new. We started at Torggata Botaniske, a very nice cocktail bar where they were shooting a movie scene as we arrived.
We had an excellent but way too risky dinner at Habibi. Absolutely outstanding food, but crowded and stuffy. No venues in Oslo are requiring vaccination proof (though the double dosed vaccination rate is 87.4%). In Oslo on the street it feels like the pandemic is over. It is most assuredly not over.
Then it was a visit to the always outstanding Himkok. We were once again pressed to finagle the door. Done.
Our obligatory bottle of Aquavit was delivered.
All in all Hotel Christiania Teater remains a five showerhead kind of place. Tops on the Oslo list! Can’t wait to be back when the pandemic is actually over.
Back in Oslo at the Hotel Christiania Teater
August 30, 2019
Oslo is a beautiful city, but whatever you do, don’t try to drive in it. Even people who grew up here can’t do it. In particular, trying to get to the Hotel Christiania Teater from Lillehammer is, well, “interesting” in that Chinese curse kind of way.
As a creature of habit who has found a great property in Oslo, NPS is happy to stay at the Hotel Christiania Teater again. The only wrinkle is that someone else has booked 620 for Wednesday night. Scooped!
That meant we were relegated to room 510, which is a nice room with an inner courtyard facing “view.” 510 is very nice, but is not at all a 620!

510 is dominated by this comfortable bed

The suite sitting area is in the same room as the bed (which in our view makes it less of a suite and more of a room)

bathroom alcove

the shower is set apart by a huge heavy door
Sadly the plumbing seems to wake up early and make insane amounts of noise. An alarm clock of sorts.

The glass shower compartment, this shower is OK
One of the best parts of Hotel Christiania Teater is the bar downstairs which is top notch and always nice to visit.

Negroni with Norwegian gin
Excellent Indian food can be found at Jaipur.

Delicious
And of course a visit to Himkok is pretty much mandatory.

Experimental aquavit cocktail
Experimental Aquavit Cocktail
2cl aquavit
2cl tequila
4 cl beech water kefie
10 ml ambrato (bison grass)
10 ml Italicus
stir down. serve up.
After a one day delay, room 620 became available. An excellent, interesting, quirky space with a great shower.

The supermodels show off 630

bedroom is all bed

walk in shower with tub

One of two great alcoves with windows
All in all 620 has tons of room to hang out, exercise (which is important since the hotel has no gym of its own), blog, read, etc, in comfort.
Some time in Oslo, included a visit to Gøran’s cousin’s excellent art gallery PURenkel.
I added a painting to the art collection.

starfish
There was also Indian street food, beer, and espresso.
A talk.

Visiting Miles
Dinner at Hanami was very good. Excellent sushi and great service.
Just skip the bar at the thief. These people have forgotten what hospitality is.
Five showerheads for Hotel Christiania Teater, one of NPS’ favorite hotels on the planet.
Return to the Cabin in the Mountains: Skarvheimem Norway
April 27, 2019
In the mountains, there is always a remarkable difference between the seasons. Our first visit to the cabin in Skarvheimem was in the Fall. We did some great hiking. This time we visited at the tail end of winter, just before Easter. Here is a short montage about our visit.
We arrived in Bergen…well maybe it was Bergen just in time to pee.

Bergen airport bathroom

Nobody in Bergen is sure about anything
After 20 hours or so of travel, sunset was a welcome sight.
Then it was off to the cabin.

Our now familiar pass

This is where the talk about photography began in earnest. It is not where it ended.

The “path” to the cabin was a little snowy
Home for Easter week.

The living room and bar area

Heat turned out to be kind of important

Outdoor fire

This is us lazing around doing nothing. Note that we were not relaxing (right Gøran?)

Panorama by Anne

The cross country ski area

Way down there is the entire crew

Did I mention there was some talk of photography?

Picture by Amy Barley
The two most important things at the cabin are both liquids.

First, there is water.

Then there is rum

Downhill day

My downhill morning companions

Moon over ice (by Anne)

The view at dinner
Music was a thing again even though the violin was left in Virginia.

Fernet anyone?

More skiing

Pretending to fly the planet

Boo!

Another fire

Two fisted Anne

Somebody is very happy

The visitor

Pancakes and ice cream

Some biathalon

Spring in Norway
Another magical visit to Norway with great friends.
Of course the shower itself was not plastic, since it was nonexistent.

The moonlit view
Jim and Chloe Have a Cabin (Guerneville, CA)
March 18, 2019
First of all you have to go north, over the Golden Gate Bridge and up the coast. Guerneville is situated on the Russian River.

Up the 101 in a convertible
But before you go to the cabin, a picnic at Preston winery is in order. There is some stocking up to do in the alcohol department.

Picnic on a perfect Spring day (preston winery)
After bread, cheese, some more cheese, salami, and different salami, olives, and hummus, and a couple of bottles of wine, and those wee little pills, it is off to see some big trees at the Armstrong Redwood State Natural Preserve. Make sure to see the amphitheater, but do not dilly dally.

Amy dwarfed by a giant redwood

The band at the crest
We did make it to the cabin after an espresso in town at Big Bottom. No really, that’s what they called it.

The cabin has modern sensibilities

Drama and moss is a thing
The a pit stop by the cabin to change clothes and it is off for dinner in Healdsburg. Chalkboard is worth driving way up to the sticks for. Excellent food. Fun, friendly service. Very good indeed. (We were slightly late the whole time, mostly due to amphitheater…LOL.)

One of the many superb dishes at Chalkboard

These doughnut things were out of this world
Sadly, we ended up being on time to see the show at the Raven. Eileen Ivers played a pre-compiled show of world music (many mixed genres). The show was solid, but also phoned in and somehow cloyingly fake. Still, it was fun singing along, and the support band was filled with excellent session musicians.

Everyone joins Eileen
The show was opened by JigJam who, other than desperately needing a new name, played an opener that topped the main event. The young fiddle player was far better than Eileen will ever be.
Then it was back home in the volkswagon and to bed by 1am.
A stint in the hot tub in the morning happened first thing, followed by some delicious eggy concoction with expert-level toast. Next, we attempted to cram 20 square feet of stuff into a 10 square foot space in the car. The stuff was consolidated, and the trunk was very slowly shut over the lil tiny bass through the use of random quantum properties, black magic, and the power of wishful thinking.
A call by the Pacific was next. The Russian River pours its brown self into the ocean at Jenner.
Then a short hike (maybe 3.5 or 4 miles) through the vernal wonderland (read “muddy”) of the California coastal hills. Sonoma is gorgeous and green for at least a week in the Spring, and we got to witness it.

Uncle Jim leads the way
Also Pacific ocean.

The Pacific at shell beach
By this time we were late again, but who cares? A drive down 1 took us directly to Rocker Oysterfeller’s where we partook of Negronis and oysters. Jim found out that oysters can be cooked and smothered in various things and still be delicious.
What an adventure! We’ll do it again as soon as we make up for lost time.
Paul’s House (undisclosed location San Francisco)
March 18, 2019
Paul’s house is situated on a dead end in the city that abuts a park. Pretty much picture perfect. Also, Paul’s house has a beautiful little apartment in it. Yes please.

Why are we in SF? Maybe for something to do with hair.
Or maybe we’re trying to cross the Global Services finish line as quickly as possible.
Probably both.

A visit to Kippu in Japantown seems to be the way we do it now on landing

This aesop thing is Jacob’s fault regardless of continent

Kitchen opens on to the back garden

Glass cube. NPS approved.

For some reason, the chairs have socks
We went to see a Cal concert featuring Esa-Pekka Salonen. The Bartok was particularly good.

Cal concert at 11:30pm EST (yawn)
Cafe du Soleil is a delicious place for a quick breakfast.
R2 Wine Luncheon Take 4
February 16, 2019
The fourth LA wine luncheon run was excellent and fun as always. This time the highlight of the day was an absolutely top notch menu put together by Bistro 45. (FWIW, Bistrot 45 already held the top dining position for these wine lunch things and knocked themselves right out of first place into first and second place.)

Your gracious host donnie sporting a svelte new look

All hands on deck

The fun end of the table

The menu features all organic ingredients

Carpaccio

Ravioli

Duck and polenta

Did we mention the polenta?
Of course, there was lots of wine, good conversation, and laughter.

The whites

The reds
Note to self that wine tasting is much better without the last vestiges of a chest cold.
After lunch we headed into greater downtown Pasadena for a cocktail or two. The bar at Smitty’s Grill is remarkably good. Excellent standard cocktails and a bartender who is even experimenting with milk punch.