Glamping in Tanzania with African Environments
October 9, 2018
This posting is cross-posted on apothecaryshed.com
During our 15 day trip to Tanzania in September, we saw some remarkable things about as up close and personal as you could get. We hiked over 70km in four national parks. And we stayed in tents. But don’t let that last bit fool you, we were “glamping.”
So what, exactly is “glamping” anyway? That’s the subject of this posting. There are 92 pieces of media in this posting.
If you are going glamping, you will need a truck
This is the passenger seat. Just for the record.
On the way to our first tent, we did a game drive for a few hours and saw many things. Including an albino baboon. But that’s another posting.
Without further ado, our first tent in Arusha national park.
The tent in Arusha
These tents have multiple rooms, double beds, and non-plastic showers.
This bed is better than a thermarest pad
Of course, readers of noplasticshowers are going to want to know about the bathroom area. There was a chemical toilet. And some sinks that drained directly outside.
Sinks without water
Mirrors in a tent?! Dang.
The shower also had no running water. It was somebody’s job to put 3.5 liters (not quite enough, that is) into the dispenser just before a “glamping shower.”
Those little handles control the water flow.
The shower from outside
Home for a couple of nights
Then there was the food situation. Just great. Really. No camping food here. Fresh fruits and veggies. Great chefs. Delicious.
Our first lunch. This is a theme we will return to.
Of course, some lunch spots were better than others. Like, say, this one. No bees and only one land shark sighting.
The fig tree in Arusha is famous. This is a staged video.
Lots of stuff happened between camps. By the time we got to Ngorongoro crater we had seen elephants fighting, black hippos, and more. See this posting for all that nature stuff.
Driving between parks
The roads in Tanzania vary widely. This one, recently completed by a Japanese engineering firm was all shiny and new. We stopped for gas. That’s because in Africa, the cars take gas, just like ours.
Gas station. Mostly familiar.
We’re here for the tents, though, and so tents it is. These tents are manufactured in Arusha. They are sturdy and must weigh several hundred pounds. Fortunately, whenever we arrived, they were already set up. Oh, and the best part about the tents? The views.
Another cushy double bed
In the morning, hot coffee was always delivered here. Just outside the door, er, flap.
There was a lunch, this time close to some bees.
Denis does not serve honey near bees
Base camp with the Maasai includes solar panels
Our little panel pales in comparison
The Ngorongoro base camp was another two night thing.
This lion is checking the exhaust system
More lunch is in order.
Fresh
Product placement opportunity
Did we mention that lunch was great?
Lunch was at hippo-land. I counted 53 trucks.
After Ngorongoro, it was off to the Serengeti for a completely different thing.
You go, Denis!
Your faithful crew enters the Serengeti
Pre lunch yoga
Yeah, there was lunch.
More lunch
Our guide Denis was by this time a great friend.
The roads in the Serengeti get some serious use. And so they also get repaired.
Road repair happens
Our third tent in the Serengeti looked suspiciously similar
We arrived at sunset and were delayed when we came across a pair of mating lions less than a kilometer from camp. For more about the lions, see this posting.
The camp lions. We saw this pair 4 times.
Solar
Our tent was cushy
The common areas in the Serengeti base camp were all hipster and very cool.
Firepit. The sand had lion tracks in the morning.
The Living Room tent, charging station and location of cold beer
Stuff
The mess tent
Breakfast was also good
Hitchhiker. This guy forgot his towel.
Make sure that you make up some Pele Pele for every meal. It is best if it stews in the sun for a week in some vinegar.
Dinner setting in the Serengeti
Base camp was great, but our plan was to do some hiking. Actually, it turned out to be mostly a walk in the park.
The scariest thing we came across on foot was this.
Camp was set up each night. Two different camps within walking distance.
Serengeti field camp
Even in the field, there was wine.
Who needs civilization?
Our tent in the afternoon. Sweltering.
Reading
Sunset was spectacular everywhere we were. This view from a Kopfe was typical in its atypical beauty.
Sundown on the Serengeti
Though the walking camps were less cushy than the base camps, they were still pretty cushy. Like, they were all set up, there was no carrying in stuff in a backpack, there were field showers with warm water, and so on. Yeah. We’ve backpacked 65 miles in Montana. This was definitely not the same thing.
Home glow
Field camp 2
Oh, and even when walking the Serengeti…there was lunch. This time buffalo.
Hiking lunch
Grill
The guys tried to surprise us with lunch, but we had binoculars and a sense of what was up.
Lunch was trucked in
James was our walking guide
Everyone was armed, though they were not really paying much attention to their rifles.
Morning at field camp
Then it was back to base camp for a night.
Glamping involves chairs and a fire at sunset
We had another lunch. Just under these bees.
And holy cow. On our way to the Hadza bushmen, there was this cheetah. In a tree. Remarkable. Cheetahs do not climb trees.
Sometimes there were goats in the road
Fire at night in the Hadza camp
Denis was a very serious person
Even while hanging around in camp, the Hadza were busy. Making arrows.
On occasion, one must stop for onions.
Onion stop!
Street vendors. Read the signs.
Another lunch shot. Because lunch!
Our last camp in Tarangire was at a tent lodge. The lodge had power, running water, a bar, and a pool. There was net too. Talk about glamping!
Civilization
A pool
Of course we were still, technically, in a tent.
The luxe tent
Which had a view.
View from the lodge
Though the showers were not all that, they did have LOTS of hot water that did not stop after 2 minutes. Woo hoo!
Not the best shower in the world, but hot water.
Anyway, that is pretty much what glamping in Africa is like. African Environments makes everything incredibly easy and fun. If you’re a real camper (like we are), it will seem unbelievably luxurious.
More product placement. We cannot recommend this firm any more highly.
Arusha HQ of African Environments. Where we had…anyone? anyone? Lunch!
Our guide Denis Mollel made the trip outstanding. Best guide in Africa. Ask for him by name.
The highlight of this trip to Argentina was an extraordinary visit hosted by Claudio Z. and Inez at the Uraqui winery guesthouse. Not only is the vineyard itself the highest in the world, the project that encompasses the winery (as one of three aspects) is a study in ecology, low-impact farming, local Aymara culture, philosophy, and raising little girls.
After fording the river in our rental car, we were warmly welcomed by Caudio who proceeded to walk us through his organic seed operation.
Uraqui winery guesthouse
The guesthouse serves as a base of operations for meals and hanging out. It’s huge windows overlook farmland and the river. The humahuaca valley is surrounded by majestic Andes peaks.
Though the rooms are simple (and we won’t even bring up the shower curtains for this entry), everything else is overwhelmingly magnificent.
Of course, we’re here to see the highest vineyard in the world and to taste the exceptionally good wine.
Usually Uraqui wine is not barreled. These barrels are for a friend.
Dinner included vegetables that we picked the afternoon of our arrival, high energy little girls flitting around like birds, a violin, a broken D string, potent conversation, and laughter.
We were up early the next morning to ascend to the vineyard and the “cellar.”
The elevation of the vineyard is 10,922 feet above sea level (see this article by Sorrel Moseley-Williams for detail from a wine expert). What that means is a very steep, four mile or so drive up over an Andes pass in a 4 wheel drive vehicle. The ascent itself is stunning.
We brought along coca leaves from the market in Tilcara (and used them to good effect).
Claudio says that the UV is the most extreme aspect of the mountain climate. The grapes he grows and blends on the property certainly make great wine.
After a brief visit to the vines, we climbed another 2000 feet (to 12,139 feet above sea level) where an old barium sulfate mine has been converted into a “cellar.” There is something pleasingly absurd (almost invoking the magical surrealism of Márquez) about a cellar being both above the vineyard by 2000 feet and close to the very top of the Quebrada mountain valley.
Claudio told us an incredible story about the naming of his wine, its label, and its current storage location. You’ll have to have him tell it to you one day.
A bottle signed by Sorrel
A tasting outside the cellar high in the mountains was in order. Incredible.
Uraqui which means “terroir” in Aymara, is a blend of Malbec, Syrah and Merlot. It is deep and flavorful.
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Overlooking its birthplace
The Andean mountain scene is stunning.
Eagle
After our morning tasting and adventure, we were welcomed for another communal lunch with the family which evolved into more philosophy with the help of some fernet and coke.
The national drink of Argentina
We said our goodbyes. And then it was off for an espresso pit stop in Humahuaca before heading back south to fly to Buenos Aires in a massive thunderstorm.
Forza
These memories will linger like wine on the tounge until we return for another glass.
Thanks Claudio
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