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The Peninsula Tokyo: Honeymoon Bookends

October 26, 2026

The Peninsula hotel is beautiful and turns out to be a better place to start a trip to Japan than to end one.  But we are getting way ahead of ourselves.

First, an obligatory 777-200 pod shot.

Our arrival from Haneda was chaotic. Small airport, too many planes at once, customs lines crisscrossing, lots of people slipping between the cracks. Plus it was hot and stuffy. But the second that we emerged from Customs chaos, a Peninsula runner was there to greet us. We took a quick side trip to get cash from a 7-11 ATM and two Suica cards to use on trains, and then it was off to meet our loquacious driver.

The road signs were a hint of cultural differences to come.

The drive is very quick and particularly relaxing in a Toyota Century (built for salarymen at the top of the capitalist food chain). We were greeted by a swarm of at least 15 staff members who whisked away our luggage as we ourselves were whisked directly to room 1308. The checkin process was a bit overly thorough and dramatic…though we were ultimately left to shower and order some ramen from room service with zero lines.

There was honeymoon champagne and a nice note from the staff.

The suite with a city view was as nicely appointed as it was laid out.

No sign of plastic in the bathroom.

And a closet/dressing room that is second to none.

Romey appreciated the vegetable ramen option so much that she wanted it again on our second stay.

After dinner, we took the elevator up to the very purple and very ’90s Peter the bar. The view was as OK as the cocktails were overpriced.

The Peninsula is a particularly great place to use as a base of operations in Tokyo because it has metro access in the basement, and is an easy walk to Ginza.

We took the metro to Meiji-Jingu first thing in the morning after breakfast on day 1. Romey found the best organic breakfast in Japan right off the bat.  The metro was very silent and orderly even at rush hour.

We did some jean shopping in Tokyo before lunch…at the wrong place that turned out to be the very much right place.

And had an excellent lunch at Yanmo.

Next up was a cab to Azabudai Hills to experience the teamlab borderless light extravaganza. Though there were really way too many people, we would do it again.

And then it was up to the Mori tower (not the JR Mori Tower, mind you) to watch the sun set over Tokyo and the red lights blink on.

This left us with enough time to go to the right jeans shop (which, as you already learned, was the wrong choice) to conjur up some personalized denim.

We returned exhausted enough to pick up some Chinese at Joe’s Shanghai New York.

The next morning we headed to Ginza 6 at its opening bell. Quite the scene.

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And then it was off to the rest of our adventure: Hakone, Takamatsu, Naoshima, Arima, and Kyoto.

—< end part one >—

—< start part two >—

We returned to the peninsula on our way out of Japan, arriving by anonymous taxi.

Lets just say that our greeting for the second arrival was entirely different. We were not whisked anywhere, but stood in line to be “upgraded” to a suite in the category we had already paid for (LOL). It seems the Peninsula mask slips a bit when you show up twice in one week by train station taxi.

We spent the last two nights in 1620 with a view of the Imperial Palace park (and its excellent sunset). We enjoyed spreading out (after requesting a nice set of hangars to use)…situation assessment was in order.

We definitely recommend the upgrade by money route.

Of course, it was us…so here is what high disorder looks like.

After arrival two, we headed out to see Zenkō-ji and the Omatesando neighborhood. We were on a quest for PJs and underwear.

To complete her quest, Romey joined an underground Tokyo underwear gang at Uniqlo.

And we had an outstanding, much-needed break at Bar Radio. Dark and quiet with a sophisticated clientele, Bar Radio is everything that Peter the bar is not.

More vegetarian ramen was on the agenda for our 9pm dinner.  Guess whose biological clocks were completely synced?

Our last day in Japan was punctuated by high tourism. We started early at the Tokyo tourist mecca…the Tsukiji Outer Market. Get there before 9am (if you get there at all)! Somehow we stayed one step ahead of the tourist hordes all day.

By 9am, we had walked over to Hamarikyu Gardens for some matcha in the teahouse.  Just as we left, 2 packed buses of tourists were unloading.

We bought some Hello Kitty stuff (waiting with a small group for the 11am opening ON THE DOT), and some heart things at Comme des Garçons.

And after a short respite at the hotel to freshen up it was off to fancy and very very early sushi dinner at Ginza Kyūbey Ginza Honten 銀座久兵衛 銀座 本店.

Our tourist-driven day was punctuated with a forgettable visit to Tender bar (skip it), and a quick hit to Don Quijote and the lights at Akihabara.

We cabbed home—touristed entirely out. Romey was in no mood for the purple neon of Peter the bar—and neither was I.

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The next morning, it was last licks for the leisurely organic breakfast during which we decided to swing up to Sensō-ji temple on a quest to find Astro Boy and an off-season Yukata.

We took the very very crowded Ginza line back to the Peninsula (well sort of) and snagged a cab after exiting the wrong exit (thanks Claude).

Final packing time was upon us.

Our packing was coming along when we discovered that we needed a new suitcase to get everything home. So we went across the street to Proteca and picked up a new bag.

And then it was time to depart Japan.  Arigatō gozaimasu!  One great honeymoon.

Five shower heads and an upgrade you paid for yourself for the Peninsula Tokyo. (Things are always better when the mask stays in place.)

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Back to the Excellent Grand Hyatt Tokyo

November 24, 2019

After a 19 hour trip from Washington, the Tokyo Station was a welcome sight. A quick taxi ride to Rappongi and we arrived at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo. NPS is traveling with the progeny. We’ve been here before, and it is great to be back.

Taxi stand Tokyo Station

Tokyo on arrival

Checkin was smooth. We requested a Twin Club Deluxe room with an extra bed to suite three adults. Our room 1013 is on the concierge level where the club is. Super convenient for breakfast and cocktails.

1013 twin club

The bathroom is spacious and well appointed with an NPS approved shower

Omnipresent screen

1013 is a very nice room, just fine for three adults.

The elevator hallway

A late dinner at The Oak Door steakhouse was impressive indeed. One of the best steaks NPS has ever eaten. Just wow.

Porterhouse (off menu)

The sides were just as fantastic as the steak.

And then it was time for much needed sleep. Sleeping on planes in pods is a fitful and pretty much unfulfilling experience. (United Polaris remains among the best in the business for international travel).

Some tips for Japan travelers. Make sure to reserve a wifi device for your wanderings so you can connect your phone(s) through that. You can pick up your device on landing at Narita at the fourth floor post office. Then get some cash if you can. Japan is all about cash. Finally, try to get a Japan Rail Green pass before you arrive. This trip, the US Post office screwed up delivery of our passes by imposing a six week delay. That meant we had to purchase passes on arrival (still recommended, but more expensive). The US Post Office sucks.

Shibuya mural

Day one in Tokyo started kind of late due to the inevitable jet lag suffered by the progeny. We started at Shibuya station to see the famous mural, the dog statue, and the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection. We also had some soup.

Tokyo Sunglasses

Next was a walk up towards Meiji Jingu that took us by an excellent sunglasses retailer, and the pedestrian shopping streets (very different) Ometesando and Takeshita. Trifles were acquired.

Espresso on the Street

Meiji Jingu

Meiji Jingu is a magical place. Any source of peace is much needed for NPS at this juncture. Shinto.

Meiji Jingu

We exited the north end of the shrine by some yellow ginkos and walked up to a small mall to share a bottle of french wine.

Samurai Museum

There was just enough time to stop in at the Samurai museum (well worth a peek) before dinner.

Sushi at Makoto Sushi was outstanding.

Then it was off on a cocktail bar crawl of sorts. Sadly Ben Fiddich was full (a reservation is a must, but the only slot we could get by phone was for 6pm, too early for us). So we found a nearby dive bar. Three bar was very professional. Nice ice. Great Negroni measured with care.

We walked from Three Bar through piss alley. Golden Gai was our final destination for the day. We visited Baobab (the first vinyl bar in Tokyo) to listen to some old funk and drink some rum. Then it was off to our final destination Le Parrain (a godfather themed, old school, very smokey bar). Great cocktails included a Jack Rose, and over sweet Old Fashioned, and a Corpse Reviver or two. (Special thanks to Jacques Bezuidenhout for excellent cocktail and food data.)

Le Parrain cocktail round

Day two in Tokyo also got off to a late start, this time because two of three of us on this trip work working (hint: not NPS who is “retired“). The day was devised with some help from Patrick who has lived in Tokyo for 10 years or so. The trip began at Hinade pier where we caught a city ferry up to Asakusa pier. The trip was about 40 minutes and a fun way to get around Tokyo.

Fuji Ramen (Tokyo)

Fuji Ramen shop

Our first stop of the day was at Fuji Ramen near Senso-ji temple. Absolutely delicious ramen!

The weather was drizzly at Senso-ji, which somehow seems to fit the mood of the temple. (See more about this visit on apothecaryshed.)

Walking Tokyo

From there, we walked to Kappabashi street to see the kitchenware and plastic food.

Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum

A taxi delivered us to the Ueno park area where we spent an hour looking at impressionist paintings from France (because what else are you supposed to look at while in Japan?) at the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. The people at the art museum, though teeming, were absolutely silent as they looked at the famous paintings. (See up and down art on apothecaryshed.)

Vending

A short walk through the park and a quick cab ride deposited us at our last stop, Akihabara. The progeny was familiar with all of the Anime stuff. NPS simply watched in awe of the breadth of Anime culture.

We cabbed back to the hotel for a brief pit stop before an incredibly great dibber at PST Pizza Studio Tamaka (in Roppongi close to the hotel). Recommended by friends of Jacques, the pizza at PST is Italian style and absolutely delicious. Highly recommended.

Our final stop before crashing and burning in the jetlag haze of day two was the Mori tower. The view of Tokyo and surrounds from 50 floors is not to be missed.

Day three started way early for a trip on the Shinkansen to Kyoto, about which see this NPS blog entry.

Five showerheads for the Grand Hyatt Tokyo. Great to be back. This place is an NPS recommended home base in Tokyo.

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