Hakone: Hakone Gora Karaku
October 26, 2026
Hakone has gone through some changes in the last decade. Lots more people. But still some amazing things to see. Our second destination after Tokyo was the nearby mountains (easily reached by Shinkansen and local trains (including the Gora one with the switchbacks).
We procured some lunch at the Tokyo Station food basement…super fun and ridiculous. Everything was super easy with our Suica cards at hand.
Gora train.
We reserved a room in the East Building top floor with an open-air bath (Japanese style). Room 102 is superb—with a view second to none in Gora. This is a Ryokan that is counting on the beauty of its buildings and their surroundings to excel. Sadly, the food situation is not up to our very high standards. We had a Kaiseke dinner that looked better than it tasted (a common complaint in Japan), as well as a workaday grill meal. On the other hand, the bakery was great, and we found a bottle of wine produced in France by a family friend at the grill.
But look at this view. We had a soak before dinner.
And we got dressed in our Yukata (for the first but by no means the last time in Japan) to head down for dinner. I had to look up how to properly tie my sash. (Left over right unless you are dead, BTW.)
Our first kaiseki of the trip.
Romey fell asleep early with both her glasses and the light on. I took a last onsen soak. We were up early for a trip one stop down to the Open Air Museum. Wow!
The morning light was beautiful.
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More astounding art. Our main reason for coming to Japan. Romey and I love to do this together.
The Gora mountain train is convenient, even when you take it the wrong direction.
We found soba (a local delecacy).
And we had a private onsen soak at the Rock Bath before dinner.
Dinner flash.
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More light than heat. And early to bed.
Up for sunrise on the terrace.
We had breakfast in the common room before taking a taxi down the mountain. Our big travel day to Naoshima was here!
Time for a shinkansen.
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Four showerheads and best wishes for a better set of chefs befitting the property for Hakone Gora Karaku.
Gora Kadan: Japanese Hot Springs in the Hakone Mountains
September 14, 2017
First you leave Tokyo on a bullet train. Eventually you end up on a tiny local that chugs up the mountain at an unhurried pace through a set of switchbacks. And then you arrive. Peace.
Gora Kadan is situated on a hillside just a few minutes walk from the Gora train station.
Hakone local
The welcome ritual is relaxing and very upscale. The big bucks come here to relax. And relax they do. Gorgeous setting. Natural hot springs. Mountains. Art.
After checking our bags, we headed out for some Soba and some art.
Soba
Sculpture in
We made an early afternoon visit to the Hakone Outdoor Museum. Just wow. Go to see the sculpture.
Then it was back to Gora Kadan to meet our room assistant and find our private accommodations (Japanese style).
Yes, you will need a private hot spring tub. Check out the view from the glass shower!
Strangely, the bathroom was divided into two sections somewhat far from each other. The obligatory Japanese toilet had many buttons.
After donning kimonos, we headed back upstairs for a soak in the public hot springs. Follow the washing rituals! Turns out that our sex segregated hot springs were mostly private since we were the only guests there. Then a glass of champagne after bathing and a swim in the pool. Pictures are not allowed in the public guests areas at Gora Kadan. The design is classic upscale Japanese. An incredible place to visit.
Kaiseki dinner is served in the room and takes at least two hours. Follow that with a massage and you have a perfect spa visit.
Kaiseki dinner
Five showerheads for Gora Kadan plus extensive hot springs and luxury of the highest order.
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