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Colonia del Sacramento is tiny, pretty, quaint, and worth a visit. It is also in Uruguay. The town is artsy and tourist friendly. It is also close to Buenos Aires by ferry (a 90 minute ride).

Arriving at the port. The lighthouse is in the old part of town

Posada Paza Major is a very nice little hotel with excellent, historical space and a good location. Sadly, the staff is so checked out that the hotel is not worth a visit. Listen up people, if you are in hospitality, you should be hospitable. Or at least try to pretend.

Courtyard

Room 18 is set apart from the main building. The space is interesting, but there is a real mildew problem down in the 300 year old out building.

The best way to see Colonia is to spend half a day wandering around. Make sure to get a burger at Bocadesanto!

Best Cheeseburger in South America? Maybe.

Though super cute with friendly owners, the coffee at this place was terrible

Bird for Boyle

Dinner at La Pascana was fun and delicious. Make sure to try some wine made from the Tannat grape. We predict big things to come for this grape.

Wine from Uruguay is very good indeed

Two showerheads and a complete reboot of the disengaged staff for Posada Plaza Major. Go for Colonia, but stay somewhere with people who care.

Everyone who reads this blog knows by now that NPS is a creature of habit. Find a hotel that we love? Stay there over and over. Sadly, our usual haunt in Buenos Aires was ignominiously deleted. Time to try a new place. Of course, we stuck to the Palermo neighborhood for its hip vibrancy, great shopping, and good eating. Make sure to spend some time in Palermo when you come to Buenos Aires.

The Fierro Hotel fits the bill. Great staff. Delicious food. Nice rooms. Modern style. You may recall that the Fierro was very much accommodating and welcoming when we dropped in unexpectedly to shower on arrival in Argentina. Great service!

For our real stay, we requested the rooftop suite (room 84). The room includes a sizable outside terrace with lots of room and a great view.

84 bed

By far, the silliest and most fun feature of 84 are these captain’s chars.

Terrace at night

The Fierro Hotel hot tub, which we actually used

This quirky shower cube will do just fine

A welcome amenity in Argentina! Now that is service.

Wine courtesy of Fierro with a note

Breakfast is delicious.

When in Argentina, Fernet and Coke

Work

A very fancy seven course dinner at Dario Gualtieri BistrĂ³ in Palermo was world class in all respects. Well, all but one. The credit card machine refused to cooperate, so we left without paying and returned the next day (somewhat to the surprise of the staff) to settle up.

Modern art

Dario Gualtieri BistrĂ³ logo

What do you need after a nice dinner out? Some fernet and music of course.

This sign drew us in

Veleros de Sol (a band from Chile)

Parrilla Don Julio restaurant is also very good. If you want a great steak in an authentic Palermo restaurant, this is the place. We had dinner with a good friend outside on the street.

La Dorita

the culprit

And then it was off to the world famous Verne Club and Suspiria Resplendoris both run by the mythical (and non-existent) Cuco. Both bars are fantastic.

World class rum cocktails at Susperia

The great trade

Suspiria bar. Top notch cocktails and great design

Cuco does not exist.

Verne Club. Some work. Others goof off.

Verne Club

Verne bar is intimate and welcoming

Thanks for the Pineral Cuco!

The UCO restaurant (located in the Fierro) has a lofty reputation indeed. We had a great dinner there, memorable more for the company than for the food.

We hit the MALBA again, which is a great museum. The Belles Artes museum collection is nowhere near as interesting. See more art here.

Five showerheads, a hot tub soak and a wish to return soon for Fierro Hotel. Highly recommended.

The flight to Buenos Aires from Newark is 11 hours and 5 minutes. The great news about such a long flight is that there is actually time enough to watch a movie, have a real sleep, and eat a good breakfast before you land. As has been the case for multiple trips in a row, United’s Polaris service (international) is second to none. Best pods. Best crew. Most flight options. Well done United. Please bring some of that goodness home to domestic flying!

Customs is now efficient in Argentina, and there is no visa tax for walking across the boarder. To be on the safe side, we set up our flight to JuJuy later in the day to give us plenty of time to be late, get stuck at customs, and otherwise be afflicted by travel woes. Of course, none of that happened.

Plan B was to take a taxi in to our hotel in Buenos Aires where we plan to check in on Monday. This was our attempt to shower in an unoccupied room, consolidate luggage, and then have lunch in the city. Thanks to the very kind people at the Fierro Hotel, we did it all and had a glass of wine in the lobby to boot. Awesome.

Room 42 is a standard issue Fierro room according to the map on the door. Modern appointment and amenities are all in abundance.

42 sitting area

From the windows in

The shower, though on the small side and a bit cramped in the bathroom, is not plastic. And boy does it feel good after being trapped in a plane for 12 hours!

ahhhhh

So a quick shower and a rearrangement of luggage (we’ll store two pieces in Buenos Aires) had us out the door before noon. That was plenty of time to find a cooperating ATM and a bistrot.

Oui Oui cafe in Palermo is recommended, but brig ear plugs if you are sensitive to noise. If you are used to rock and roll in small places, everything will be fine.

Coffee at Birkin is taken very seriously, and to good effect. (All they have is a lame ass Facebook link, so here.)

Then it was off to the other airport to fly to JuJuy.

Worth noting is the fact that Aerolinea Argentina has better equipment than United does for domestic flights. Better food too. The two hour and 15 minute flight was smooth once we negotiated the typical Argentinean boarding scrum (which for some reason always involves some sort of confusion).

Everything is slower in Jujuy, and that is just fine. For the record, that includes baggage claim, car rental, and dinner. Time to slow down.