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The Mandeville Hotel is worth not visiting.  Just don’t go.  And whatever you do, do not ignore all the red flags on your way to not staying there. Like say, the inability to book a room category in a reasonable process.  Or emails that take three days to answer.  Or a room that not only is not ready when you arrive for five nights, but isn’t even worth the wait. Those kinds of red flag.

Billing itself as a “boutique hotel,” everything about the hotel itself is a stretch.  What the Mandeville turns out to be, is a business hotel gussied up in an ill-fitting hand-me-down suit with a very wide tie that doesn’t match.  But his sister is nice. Some people may be fooled. We are not.

We arrived from an excellent flight across the pond in United Polaris kind of wanting a good espresso and a shower (not necessarily in that order). We did end up getting a nice breakfast on a brilliant bright morning at the Ivy about a block from the hotel.  You see, the one very good thing about the Mandeville is its location smack dab in the middle of Marylebone.  You may recall from previous entries here in this spectacular blog that the Ivy is a top notch brunch chain (see Manchester and London entries).

In any case, our executive suite (so to speak) was ready when brunch was over.  But what a disappointment room 105 was.  Don’t stay in this room: weird bank of windows directly over the noisy-at-night restaurant, overlooking an alley of sorts, decor from that decade where polyesther was a good thing, uncomfortable couches.  Just all around terrible.  This room should be demoted to a much lesser category…like “very large broom closet” or “place to store old wallpaper swatches.  We only stayed in this room one night because the other three rooms in our reserved category were not available.  Right.

But judge for yourself!  I mean look at that wallpaper.  And the way the bathroom opens directly to the bed.

The shower was not plastic. Instead it was dangerous. Fortunately nobody broke a leg during our one night in this room. The shower was very nice, danger aside.

When you’re in Marylebone, retail therapy is in order. We spent time wandering the shops, hitting up me+em, theory, selfridges, varvatos, and more. Too much money was spent, but when you are a country mouse like we are, all of the city things are so shiny!

On our first day in London we found Scales bar which is well worth a revisit. Excellent cocktails (limited but creative and nicely concocted).

Fortunately, we were able to switch rooms to Executive Suite 216 after our first night (which was ridiculously overpriced for what it was). 216 was much better situated in the new purple part of the hotel. But the suite itself was still small and very poorly laid out. We’re sorry, but a bathroom opening directly on the bed is just not classy in the least.

The bathroom was much better. So what made us dislike this hotel so much? Well on our last night in London (a Wednesday night no less), a private party rented out the restaurant and bar and proceeded to put on a loud, obnoxious disco starting around 9pm and stretching nicely to 1am. Since we were to be up at 5:00am to fly to Dublin this was not a good thing. Complaints to management on checkout were ignored (so far anyway). We do plan to ride this one down to completion.

In the meantime, by no means stay at the Mandeville. Stay anywhere else.

Of course, London is a fantastic place to visit, and we had some very good experiences this round…

We spent some time at Hyde park checking out the icebergs.

We spent some time conducting business (which by the way will bring us to London regularly, but not again to the Mandeville).

We spent some time at both Tate galleries (Tate Modern and Tate Collection) and on a boat between. If you like the Kandinsky below, check out the others.

And we hit a number of excellent restaurants, including Roka, Carlotta, Tamarind, Chez Roux.

You will find stunning art at Henson’s Bar (in Mimi’s hotel). Apparently Mimi was a collector. We had excellent drinks surrounded by even better art. Need a cult classic like a Paper Plane or a Industry Sour? Of course you do.

Closing out our stay at the Mandeville was the coup de grace. The staff in the morning had no power to make us whole, and the manager who was instructed to get in touch never did. One showerhead for the Mandeville, we will not return.

Seems like we were just IN Manchester…because we were.  The plan at the time was to go see Florence and the Machine at the AO.  But Florence broke her foot in London the day before the show.  So our main reason for coming to the UK was obviated.  Dang.

We decided to return to see the Florence show if and when it was rescheduled.  The show happened February 3rd, and it was magical.  21,000 fans singing along in an emotional outpouring of live music.  Florence and the Machine shows are not to be missed!

Last time it was the Lowry.  This time we targeted the Midland Manchester, one of those grande dame hotels of yore that has been updated to modern in a British kind of way.  The best thing about the Midland is its prime location and a pretty decent bar.

We were assigned 541, a junior suite category room.  The coloring is tasteful and yet has all of the life sucked out of it.

We spent most of our very limited time in the bedroom half.

Meanwhile the bathroom had lots of room for, well, we’re not sure.  But the shower was quite nice indeed.

The under utilized sitting room.  Turns out most of the sitting was in the downstairs lobby bar.

We arrived Thursday morning.  Our room was available and ready, which was a very pleasant surprise!  Wish more hotels would listen when you tell them you are arriving early from a transcontinental flight.  Well done Midland!

It was off for lunch at the Ivy.

Followed by packing to depart (!!), some cocktails in the bar (during which an invasion of penguins occurred), and a fancy pants dinner at the French.  Dinner at the French was very good indeed, but still seemed overpriced.  The table space deserves some rethinking.

We slept in and headed to Bills for breakfast the morning of the show. Or more accurately, early afternoon.  Bill’s is a great place to relax over a long breakfast with some Bloody Marys.

We spent a bit of time wandering Manchester, but before we knew it, we were off to the concert.  We made a detour through Five Guys on the way over for a Maryland burger.

The concert was fantastic.

Late night drinks at the Midland bar were fun even when the ABBA clad Germans invaded.  Each time we inhabited the bar, we found excellent bartenders willing to learn and a bit frustrated by lack of certain ingredients.  We deleted the Fernet.

The whole trip, though a whirlwind, was well worth all of the flying.

Four showerheads for the Midland Manchester.

 

It has been some years since we visited the stuffed cat in the Zetter Townhouse in London, and lo and behold, the cat is in full on Christmas mode.  More about that soon enough.

In town for business, we reinhabited the old haunt (the Zetter Hotel), this time in room 503.  This is one of the three rooms on the fifth floor with an excellent outside deck.  Of course it was rainy and cold the entire time, because London.  But we actually used the deck!

NPS still believes the 50X rooms need refurbished bathrooms.  The showers are long in the tooth, unsatisfying, and involve climbing into a tub.  A complete revamp with some glass showers would do everyone good.

The rest of 503 is great.  Be aware that the stairs down to the bathroom can be hazardous in the middle of the night.

Looking in on 503 from the deck.

Two views from the Zetter (up and down).  The blue sky was extremely temporary.

Now look at that tub!  We’re going to need to try that (but only after a visit to Callooh Callay.


The blue is still around.

Hopefully this shower is not long for the world.  The bathrooms are small but could be laid out much more reasonably.

Of course, the main draw of the Zetter is the Townhouse next door.  Yes please.  We had them fetch the Amer Picon from downstairs.  The visit featured many a Picon cocktail, including the Liberal, the Brooklyn, and Picon Punch.  I never make the latter because it takes way too much rare (in the US) Amer Picon.

Things were Christmasy all over London.

We returned to the Zetter Townhouse multiple times.

But first a quick note about some restaurants we did business things in.  Quo Vadis is an outstanding location for a private dinner.  And the Quality Chop House is unbelievably great.  Seriously, best Pheasant we have ever eaten.  Best Ramen in London at Mohonon.

Fun?  At Quo Vadis.

Picon Punch looks like coke.

Noel was let out on good behavior.  It did not last long.

Guilty as charged.

This South African gem was a perfect match for game.  The Norwegians were in the house!

Romey arrived bright and early and looking very stylish.

A quick hit at the Tate rounded out a full day.

More Townhouse late into the evening.

A new thing?  A visit to the London Eye.  Been there.  Done that.

The band.

A visit to the Churchill War Rooms was stuffy and a bit of a disappointment.  The Ivy, on the other hand, did not disappoint.

Martinis for the band at the Dorchester Bar (the Connaught was packed).  This round did not do much to improve the theater.  We saw A Single Man at the Park Theater. It was OK.

Martinis were not a sufficient dinner.  So we made a late night run to Chinatown.  It was also packed.  Where did all these people come from?

In other news, the Victoria and Albert has a design exhibit that is interesting, the South Bank Christmas market is a bust, Bengal Village is really nothing worth writing home about, and Callooh Callay remains a blast (thanks for the good conversation Charlie).

The Industry Sour cocktail made several appearances during this trip:

equal parts green chartreuse, lime, fernet, and simple syrup (1:1).  surprisingly great.

Always Negroni.

And that tub?  Yup!


A very nice visit to the Zetter again.  We’ll probably be back.  Because.  Four showerheads and a hope for new bathrooms in the near future.