In Portland (Oregon) with Friends
May 14, 2024
This wanderlust trip was set up just to visit friends. We flew United. We still believe that United domestic and United International are two completely different airlines. We also believe that the “plus points” nonsense is just that…nonsense. Sure would be nice to have a domestic airline that was not a bus.
We landed just after sunset. Mt Hood was visible on landing. Our friends T&G live up on the hill overlooking the city. Portland remains as lush and green and slightly soggy as ever.
We spent Friday visiting the Silver Falls State Park. Absolutely stunning. (Click here for many more fabulous pictures.)
On the drive back, we followed our nose through the back roads. We could almost see 17 peaks from there.
Lunch at Whiskey Hill Store was just what the doctor ordered.
We visited the nearby winery for a taste. They made it very hard to actually buy some wine. This is kind of a Portland anti-capitalist thing, we suppose. It was raining.
There was pool…out of politeness we decline to say who prevailed.
Everyone wishes to remain anonymous.
There was some kind of strategy game with random rules, enhanced by a delicious negroni or two.
Cornell Farms is a fantastic place for breakfast (if you don’t mind waiting for a while).
After breakfast, we changed locations across the river and down the hill to a sweet little bungalow—the house of e.
We did some thrifting and some ice cream eating. Salt and Straw is special. We changed into fancy pants. We visited bible club for a cocktail with even more friends. Very nice vibe (including the waiting in the rain listening to 80s covers part). Romey was psyched to meet Cate.
We had dinner at Kann (which took some setting up way in advance). Kann seems to be out slightly over its skis. The food is fantastic, but the ambiance is industrial and slightly over-aware of its own presence.
The next day was devoted to propping up the American economy by buying things: books (at powell’s of course…the best bookstore on earth), clothing, and cocktails. You could say it was a perfect day. We started at Cheryl’s for brunch.
Day drinking in the rain at the Teardrop is a thing to experience.
The dog did not participate.
We picked up possibly the hottest Thai food in the United States and crashed early.
The next day it was off to town for coffee and sushi (at the tiny mizu). Then the Kennedy School.
We sure do love visiting our friends!
Tyinkrysset Beckons, or Maybe it’s Randonee
May 2, 2024
After time in Stockholm and Oslo, the cabin was a welcome respite. We scooped Anne at the central station, and started our journey on the bluff above Oslo at the “Rose Castle.” The side trip was extra special because after 22 years I finally met Gøran’s mom. We all missed Romey.
Then it was a long drive through beautiful country to the cabin. There was still plenty of snow.
.
We used the cabin as a base of operations for two trips up even higher into the mountains. The first was to Tyinstølsnøse (1386 m) on Saturday. Just amazing.
UP
DOWN
In between we ate delicious fish, drank negronis in tiny mugs, slept not quite enough, and cooked over the fire outside.
Sunday morning the weather was perfect, so we had to don our skis and do it again. This time we skied straight up behind the cabin through the woods. The snow was so perfect that alpine back down through the woods was easy enough.
This is how I really felt.
The time was way too short, but my body was ready to rest. After our Sunday ski, we loaded up the car and headed to Bergen for another talk, some Norwegian “tacos” and a fancy dinner out.
The tacos (and the boys, who are quickly becoming young men).
The talk…
The present.
The cocktails at No Stress.
The dinner at Chérie.
A short but fantastic visit to Tyinkrysset.
Oslo Again: Of Course it’s Christiania Teater
April 23, 2024
Welcome fernet.
Room 620 for the win. The upgrade/refurbish is almost complete.
Dinner at Brazilia was not very brazilian. But it was fun.
Breakfast is the best.
The talk came early.
There was team building at CUBE. It was fun even though the pizza was bad.
Always great to hang out with friends.
BTW, you can skip all of the tourist restaurants at the fish market pier.
It was a short trip, bookended with the Rose Castle on the way to the cabin.
Five showerheads for the Oslo hotel of choice.
An Absolute Gem in Stockholm: Ett Hem
April 23, 2024
Though NPS has been to Sweden a handful of times, this was our first trip to Stockholm, and it probably won’t be the last.
Ett Hem is a tiny luxury hotel that does every single thing right. The staff is so professional that they feel like really particularly helpful friends, the food is absolutely world class, and the grounds (two buildings with a few rooms in each) are gorgeous. Needless to say, the showers are not plastic.
After a delayed arrival (on Swiss Air, whose business class equipment and service did not match United’s standards(!!)), we all met in the second floor common room in the building with the restaurant (that is, the building that includes its own bakery where they mill flour). We had a Negroni from the honor bar and caught up after some years. It’s always fun to introduce good friends who have yet to meet, in this case a Finn and a Norwegian.
Of course there was a mandatory hot shower and checkin in to the rather small but well appointed room 29.
The shower was most excellent.
The fact that the bedroom is small is made up for by the extensive common rooms (like the one where we met) and run of the entire well-groomed property.
We snagged a dinner reservation at Matbaren Mathias Dhalgren, the kind of resraurant designed and executed for foodies. Dinner was excellent and service was just as fun as our furnishings were quirky.
Then we had a nightcap at the Grand Hôtel bar. The cocktails were good but not fantastic, and the vibe of the space is pretty much what you would expect from such an old school hotel. Ironically, my two friends decided to get another drink and I left the scene early since my reason for being in town was a breakfast seminar a couple of days later at the ungodly hour of 8am. I guess that’s one way to avoid jetlag…just blow right through it!
After sampling the outstanding Ett Hem breakfast we made a quick visit to the photography museum.
Then we shot some video of our own, but with more clothes. And played some team building company trivia games. After which dinner at Soho House was an excellent experience. Always fun to hit it off with friends of friends. It was taco Tuesday in Sweden, and, well, Swedish tacos are hilarious.
On our way to A Bar Called Gemma we stopped in at Grodan for a cocktail or two.
Gemma was a much better craft cocktail mixology joint than Grodan, but it was also slightly slouchier and grimy.
Then it was up way early to give the talk. We decided to try out the restaurant at Ett Hem for lunch. Outstanding.
Ett Hem is worth a visit to stockholm for all by itself. Magical. Fiver showerheads with no reservations at all.
The Hotel Washington, Washington DC
March 19, 2024
Steph Vogel now runs the Hotel Washington. And you know what that means…an attentive staff, attention to detail, and all around excellence. In fact, you might accidentally find yourself believing you have been transported to a Kimpton of yore. (Trust us, Kimpton used to be excellent…)
We arrived in the late afternoon, just in time for a cocktail at sunset in the rooftop bar.
The staff knew us by sight (due to the wanted poster in the staff room, no doubt). We were given an excellent suite, 820, bumped up three flights by someone paying attention. Sadly, Steph is out of commission with a major skiing injury, so we did not get to see him.
We were greeted with a personal note, a snack (saved for late night) and a bottle of Pinot Noir (much appreciated by Romey). Though it has been a while, all of our preferences were not only noted but met. Attention to detail is so rare.
820 is a beautiful corner suite with lots of room to spread out. We were bummed that our schedule was so tightly packed.
The bathroom is great. Only one quibble with the shower involves water pressure.
The bed room completes the suite.
We dropped our stuff in the room and headed up to the rooftop. After a few sips of our Negroni we were able to score a seat by the open windows.
We watched the sun set over the white house. We saw the President’s motorcade depart as well. Classic DC.
And then it was a fight through the wedding hoards and a quick uber to dinner. Rooster and Owl (recommended by Steph) is outstanding. We shared a bottle of champagne.
Next was the 9:30 club for the late show. Thievery Corporation was a blast.
We were in bed no later than 2:30am. Then up too early for brunch at the Jefferson (which you can skip).
Fiver showerheads but a distinct absence of Steph for this visit. We hope to be back soon.
Grown Up Fun in San Diego: The Lafayette Hotel
February 28, 2024
What a difference a day makes! First of all, we have to thank Kevin who has his finger on the pulse of San Diego. He has been to the Lafayette before for dinner and knew what a cool place this is. And is it cool? Yes.
The lobby and the main bar are excellent. Quirky and strange and fun.
I was assigned room 226 after only a slight delay. The hotel is “eclectic cluttered” flavor, but somehow the design sensibility works. I guess it is possible to make things hang together by building a collage of most everything.
226 is rectangular, but it doesn’t feel like a hamster cage. About the only thing that needs work is the noise level. 226 faces the street and it is a bit noisy (for non city types anyway). The hotel did manage to get super quiet for about four hours around midnight when the power was taken down for construction. The quiet woke me up.
The hotel did its homework and greeted NPS with personalized stationary, a note about birthday, and a bottle of prosecco.
The difference in level of service between this hotel and the previous destination is like night and day. Thet have the NPS demographic nailed here.
I mean, just look at this bar. Apparently there is one of these in each room.
Home negroni? Why not.
Underberg?!
And the shower? Not at all plastic.
It was time to unwind from the meetings and talks. So down to the bar to await the arrival of my dinner companions
An expert-level Negroni with clear huge ice. Yes please.
Dinner at Quixote was very interesting (and expensive but well worth the price). The restaurant is a restructured church moved up from Mexico. Really interesting. The cocktail program is top notch and willing to play. We started with a CR#2 of course and moved on to a Paloma and some fernet.
Dinner is served tapas style. The lamb belly on mole was delicious.
Stringy cheese fondue.
NPS has never had cactus before.
After a brief stop by Heaven we headed to the game room to play some games. Fooseball!
We made a relatively early night of it, stopping in at the pool bar for a Paper Plane nighcap before crashing.
And then it was morning. Enough time for a leisurely breakfast before heading to the airport and back to Virginia.
All in all, we barely scratched the surface of the Lafayette. (We did learn to avoid the road side.) And we tried out a few of the many options here for fun. Suffice it to say, we will be back. Five showerheads and a dip in the pool next time for this excellent hotel.
Chez Georges: Santa Teresa Rio
January 16, 2024
Staying in Rio? Definitely get yourself a hotel in Santa Teresa. After a few smashing days in Leblon, we were ready for some more authentic Brazil. Santa Teresa fits the bill.
Chez Georges is owned by architects, and it has only seven rooms. The location is outstanding, with excellent views over the city, a perfect line to sugar loaf, and access to Santa Teresa from the top. The design sensibility is world class (though the property itself could use some TLC and some closets). The vibe is chill. Unfortunately, the staff is a bit too chill (though incredibly friendly and nice) and could use a dollop or two of professionalism.
Seems that the Georges caters to a younger, less experienced demographic. I mean, we can go with the flow, but at this stage of our lives we are spoiled rotten! We even have our own band.
The top of Santa Teresa includes the drowned rat overlook.
We had two rooms at the Georges, the first a regular suite. There were no closets anywhere (which if you have, say, wedding dresses and kilts is not the best of circumstances).
Late lunch at Cafe do Alto was unique and just as fun as the karaoke was terrible.
Night view.
The shower in our first room was fantastic, with an unparalleled view.
Monkeys in the morning.
Fruit in the trees.
One of the great joys of the Georges is the breakfast spread. Fresh fruit. Great company. Hella views. You will likely have to use the espresso machine yourself to make a decent coffee.
A side trip to the MAC in Niterói was most excellent.
Dinner at Aprazivel was very nice and somewhat soggy as the clouds finally burst. We took a cab the 600 meters home.
We switched to the George Harrison suite for the last two nights of our stay. Still no closets. The shower was nice, but not as nice as the first room. And good luck finding a flat iron, arranging a salon, or even finagling an ironing board from housekeeping. Slack slack staff.
We were in Rio for a wedding. The wedding itself was magical. Here we are all suited up and ready to go.
There were, of course, some wedding events, including:
guided tours
philosophy sessions
poetry
and some joyous dinners.
And then there was the big surprise!
Romey said she would like to be a McGraw.
We packed up on our last day and then headed to Sugarloaf for last licks in Rio.
Four showerheads and some mandatory hospitality training for the staff at Chez Georges. Such a beautiful place deserves to be best in class.
NYE in Rio de Janeiro: Janeiro Hotel
January 16, 2024
The Janeiro Hotel in Rio is one of the best hotels in the city. Directly on (well, across the street from) the Leblon beach, the Janeiro is beautifully located to walk to Ipanema (that is, if you even feel like leaving Leblon). The beach is typical Rio, less crowded in the early morning and then a mob scene from 11am on.
We were on the 8th floor in the suite (maybe 851). The idea was this: Our friends D&C were getting married on the 6th, so we decided to head down early for NYE in Rio and some time on the beach. It was a great plan.
Dave points out that the wedding is that way.
The trip to Rio is long (18 hours for us over two flights, the longest one being almost 11 hours). We reserved our room the night before arrival for easy check in. Car service from the airport was provided by the hotel.
The hotel itself is modern, clean, and well-designed. Our shower was top notch (built into the room with two showerheads, lots of room, and a view of the beach).
Non-traditional layout avoids the hamster-cage problem with panache.
We were greeted with a personal note and a NYE welcome kit, including some great stuff from local designer Osklen and a bottle of Mumms.
The staff at the hotel is highly professional and world-class without being stuffy or stuck up. And the hotel itself is an easy place to hang out. So we did.
Our haunt at the top of the hotel included a great bar with yummy snacks.
Christ the redeemer was obscured by clouds. Fitting.
Of course we had a bazillion caipirinhas while in Brazil.
Breakfast was available in the room…
Or in the dining room on the second floor…
The (tiny but nice) pool was also at the top of the hotel.
We had ramen in town at Pabu Izakaya and an excellent dinner at Teva (a vegan restaurant). Don’t get pizza from Fratelli (you have been warned).
On NYE we visited the happy couple and met some of the crazy Australians in Ipanema. NYE Dinner at the Janeiro (a special occasion) was only so-so. This was kind of a surprise given the high quality of the hotel’s food otherwise. Cooking for a large crowd is a thing. We skipped the big party in our zombie-jet-lagged state and watched the fireworks from our picture windows. It was a nice evening.
BTW, Brazilians wear white on NYE. We had no idea. Next time we’ll be better prepared.
The holy trinity: espresso, fernet branca, and the Redeemer on the mountain.
And yes, lots of time at the beach. Alto risco!
Our New Year’s Day Blade Runner tradition was upheld with a bottle of champagne.
We did some shopping while in Leblon, picking up some great clothing at Osklen and some special wedding shoes.
All in all our first few days in Rio were outstanding. We had some fun with our friends, spent some quality time on the beach, and decompressed by the pool during the New Years festivities. We even upheld the Blade Runner tradition.
Five showerheads and a tip of the NYE hat to the Janeiro.
Art in London: Zetter Townhouse
November 6, 2023
The Zetter Townhouse, situated just behind the Zetter Hotel and home to one of the best cocktail bars in London, was the base of operations for some business and a nice pile of art. NPS was put into room 6.
Art included, the Tate, some theater, and a concert.
The shower is not plastic, though climbing in and out of the enormous tub is a thing, Perhaps some short stairs should be installed.
Room 6 could use a better wardrobe, and some updated less shabby furniture. But all in all it is a nice place to spend a few days.
On our way to the Tate, we stopped by Ibérica Farringdon for a bite.
Our visit to the Tate Modern is documented here.
Of course a cocktail at the Zetter Townhouse rounded out the Thursday plan. We keep reminding them what a Liberal is.
Then some business which included two very nice meals, one at Bocca di Lupo and an incredible lunch at Inko Nito.
A French dinner at Le Café du Marché was very good for London but would never fly in Paris.
Saturday afternoon was meant to start with ramen, but Mohonon was closed (fortunately that was remedied Sunday evening. Suffice it to say that Bone Daddy just does not stack up.
Waiting on line might require a beer.
Some shopping at Varvatos cost everyone a pretty penny, but was surprisingly not awful.
We just had time for a brown meal at Hawksmoor before the theater. Then it was off to see Lyonesse which was enhanced by some sugarless French 75s.
The play was quite good, a medical emergency nothwithstanding.
The next day included a run back to Soho to visit Etro. And then some incredible classical music at the barbican.
Followed by real Ramen. Mohonos is just so good…equal to Japan.
A nightcap at Boccas was not terrible. But no Fernet in an Argentinean bar?! What?! A Pisco Sour (Peru?) would have to do.
All in all, four showerheads and a quick furnishings update required for the Zetter Townhouse.
Back to the Christiania Teater Hotel in Oslo
October 22, 2023
The beautiful and funky Christiania Teater has experienced a face lift. Even room 620 (a long time NPS favorite) has been updated.
The Fly2Get train in from the airport is a snap. The upgraded decor a welcome change.
Funky art in the hallway.
The orange juice machine remains the best in the world. In fact the entire breakfast situation is top notch.
Cafe Skansen is well worth a visit. Great place for a business dinner.
Fireside chat? In Oslo it is the real thing.
Engage.
The Munch museum (iteration three) is well worth a visit.
Himkok seems to have jumped the shark. Good luck edging in past the masses! We tried the Swan instead. Which was OK.
On the other hand, Indian food at Mantra was excellent. Great decor and the best indian so far in Oslo. And Dinner is a good place for dinner, though the food is much better than that work-a-day service.
Then it was off to Tyinkrysett.
Five showerheads for the Christiania Teater hotel. We will most likely return sooner than we think.
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